Central America III

Central America Caribbean
August 17th 2008

Published: October 16th 2008

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Exodus

Utila

The local map showing the dive sites

Yes, we're still alive, just been away from the net for about a month or so. Put it this way, last time I logged on the Dow was above 1200; guess things change. Let's get caught up, I know mom is anxious to find out what her "little boy" has been up to (I'm 36 for those who don't know).

It was back to Honduras and the Bay Island of Utila where we spent about a week at island pace, and I became a certified diver (Lee already is one). I must say it was fantastic, and all thanks to Jenny at Ecomarine who guided this land lover back into the ocean, in a counter-evolutionary sort of way. Jenny, if you read this, thanks a lot, you made it easy. After getting all the necessaries out of the way, Lee and I had some fantastic dives. It really is unbelievable what lies beneath the waves, and to be comfortable and confident sucking life through a tank 60 feet below the surface in the acoustic silence and visual cacophony of it all opens up an entire range of experience that was both awesome and incredible. As I told Lee, "ok, I

Utila

The ferry dock on the way to Utila. Everything goes on the ferry...even a new fridge

get it!" quickly having to add "no, I still don't see why we now need matching wetsuits!!" ...we'll save that for another day.

Utila, the island, was great. We stayed in a small (read: tiny) accommodation (read: room) that was comfortable (read: f@*#ing hot) that was perfectly priced (read: free) because I had done my course through the dive shop that owns the lodge. When not diving, we spent our time doing some world class snorkeling -- it was amazing. As the entire island "drops off" you literally put the fins on, kick 3 or 4 times and find yourself in another world, surrounded by reef, fish, and all the other life that goes with it, not a bad way at all to spend time.

I think a highlight of Utila for the two of us was that it is as of yet uncontaminated by the tourist industry and you spend your time very much amongst the locals, doing as they do, eating where they eat, and trying to beat the heat at the same watering holes in the evenings. It hasn't been like that everywhere we've been and it was refreshing. Checking out the other two Bay

Utila

On the Dive Boat ready to head out

Islands will definitely be on the list of things to do in the future.

From Utila we did the usual bus, taxi, bus, walk, donkey, bus song and dance to Copan (a town on the border of Honduras and Guatemala), on a suggestion by one of our Rastafarian neighbors in Utila. Never one to shy away from a little spontaneous travel advice (that's really the point of it all, to be free to do whatever the hell you want for a year, wherever the river leads), we found ourselves nicely compensated for a decision which not only allowed us to experience absolutely fantastic ruins, but one of the best little towns in Central America and probably the "highlight" day so far.

The ruins, as mentioned, were awesome. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so I'll save a few thousand and direct you there. Not quite Macchu Picchu, but then what is...only Angor Wat comes close from what we're hearing...have to wait and see.

Copan town or Copan Ruinas, it's official tag, has all the makings of a good little cowboy town (seriously, everyone looks like a cowboy).
Clean, quaint, friendly, interesting, and cheap. We found an awesome

Utila

Eco-Marine, whom we did our diving with

spot to stay, Cafe Via Via, for $15 a night and just had a general good time of it. One note of caution however. The restaurant has a cheeky little host by the name of Raphael who was not beyond playing practical jokes on unsuspecting travelers. Fried chicken was on the menu and I asked him how to order the breast, as I'm a white-meater. I should have known something was up by the accompanying giggle when he told me, or the accompanying blush and giggle of the waitress when I ordered it...and ordered it again the next day (it's a good, safe meal as hot oil kills everything you might not welcome into your insides). I only recently found out I had been ordering "fried chicken tits" all the way to Mexico! Raphael, if you ever read this...nice one!

Anyways, after a good meal we headed over to listen to some live music which was enjoyable in that everyone, including the band members, knew exactly how bad it was. I guess that removed any pressure to perform and led to a fun singalong kind of evening. We happened to be sitting next to some very cool people who

Utila

The local store on the corner where you pick up the neccesary gallons of water every other hour. Someone's looking a wee bit hot and bothered...shhhh

invited us to their farm the next day. It turns out their "farm" was a very large valley/coffee plantation/organic fruit and vegetable farm/family compound, and we and some other lucky folks had a fantastic day as they showed us around on horseback and treated us to a delicious lunch, all homegrown, with their own coffee to boot. I had never been on a horse before and by the time I dismounted I'm not sure which was more grateful, the general area between my ankles and neck, or the poor old horse to whom I had clung to for dear life. In all seriousness, I was impressed that old boy got up, got down, and over everything we threw at him (not that I could steer him, thankfully he was happy to follow a horse with a real rider). We ended the
day with a long soak in some local hot springs, where a boiling hot waterfall met a cool river creating the perfect tonic for a day on horseback.

And that was Honduras. I think it's worth saying that of all of Central America, to us Honduras stood out as being...I wouldn't say "better," because who's to judge that,

Utila

We'll call this main Street

but maybe "further along" than the rest of them. (It should be noted that we skipped Panama and El Salvador) I read on the bus to Guatemala that one country to have endured the Post Colonial upheavals of the region relatively peacefully, and in my opinion that explains a lot. It's amazing how a pesky Civil War here and there, brought on internally from outside sources (thanks Ronnie), so severely stunts the growth and prosperity of a place. That retardation of growth is abundantly
evident in Central America and it's shameful, the people deserve better. The people are fantastic! Hopefully the whole region will enjoy more of Honduras seeming stability in the future and the encompassing oppurtunity to improve their lot (you didn't think you were getting away without some gratuitous and unnecessary opinionated amateur philosophy, did you?)

A relatively painless border crossing and another bus trip (if you're tired of reading it, try doing it!) brought us through the greens of
Guatemala, to a truly beautiful little island town of Flores, from which we headed out to explore the ruins of Tikal. As by now, I'm
sure you're as tired of reading about "nice towns" and "lovely ruins"

Utila

Lots of tropical flowers and plenty of color all round.

as I am about typing about them. I'll once again direct you to the pictures. Worth mentioning, I suppose, would be the sunsets over the lake at Flores, and at least saying for the record that the ruins were incredible in their own way and the fact that they are still immersed in jungle made the wildlife around them an extra bonus. After having seen Copan and Machu Pichhu you have to remind yourself not to become blase about the great ruins of Central America. It is truly amazing to think about what they must have looked and felt like when they were contemporary. Astounding achievements by those who came before, so long ago.

From Guatemala, it was on to Belize for only a few days, as time was running low. We made our way from Belize City by ferry to Caye
Caulker. It's a quaint little "town/island" but I think it's gone a bit too far tourist for our taste. Can't blame them, that's where the money is, but if you're not keen on paying for a tour to be able to do something, I'd give it a skip, as there is really not much else to do.

Utila

Some pretty snazzy places popping up, but still mostly local and authentic feeling. No cruise ships yet like it's sister islands

That being said it does host one of the better bars we've been to and it's moniker "A Sunny Spot for Shady People" is more than just a clever line. Shady and friendly made for a good afternoon with some very interesting people. We also unexpectantly ran into some incredible Chinese food (there is actually a China town on the island) at the back of the island, away from the tourist strip. The island is a hop off point for some great diving, but as there is no real beach to speak of, and we'd be so spoilt snorkeling of Little Corn and Utila
already, we were ready to move on pretty quickly.

And so, it was off to Mexico. Central America was amazing and I think it will take some time to process it all and some perspective from the rest of the world to give it a fair place in my mind. It's certainly not without a natural abundance of beauty and potential. There's something here for everyone nowdays, even those needing their air conditioning and internet connections, but the real jewels are still to be found off the beaten track, away from the 30 dollar side

Utila

Getting some veggies to ward of the scurvy. Man it was hot!

trips and synthetic slimy touristy mold that grows eventually wherever the right condition of things to see and money to be made exists. It's people were amazing. On a whole, they seem caught between the glory and pride of ancient empires, the social injustices of Colonization, and the potential dangers and temptations of the modern world knocking on the door with fist-fulls of dollars, making promises that have all been heard before. It is no wonder you still see the face of Che wherever you go, and hear the iconic voice of Bob Marley around every corner -- two icons here who continue to remind those less well-born and more heavily trodden that they have not been forgotton by everyone, and to all that no matter which "ism" you follow, it all bascically comes down to humanity's instinctive urge to be free, and the simple neccesity for fertile grounds in which that urge can flourish...there I go again, sorry. Anyways people, it's off to the South pacific to see what goes on down there.

cheers for now,
Andy

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