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Published: April 1st 2007
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Rodney Bay
Nice and relaxed beach.. frequented by locals and travelers alike. 35c, Fine
The bumpy 3 hour ride from Dominica to St Lucia via catamaran was highly uneventful. I wished something had of happened because I had this sinking feeling in my stomach that I wasn’t going to like what St Lucia had to offer - either that or I was worried I’d be kicked out. I had no CARICOM visa and St Lucia was a big player in the cricket finals (which were a few days away). Little Dominica had given me a CARICOM wrist band which SHOULD let me in without passport inspection (and discovery that I have no CARICOM visa). Luck was on my side and the over crowded immigrations official called out “we need anyone with a CARICOM band to go straight thru, this will simplify the process”. I was through… I’d successfully travelled without my CARICOM visa while other aussies were being slugged $US 100 and forced to apply months in advance. I liked St Lucia already and searched for a taxi driver.
My accommodation was pre booked at Genmar Apartments in Rodney Bay (I’m mentioning that because I’d highly recommend it.. clean rooms and close to the beach without the tourist price). I
Waiting For You..
Ahhh.. the quiet spot in Rodney Bay figured mentioning Rodney Bay would be more than enough reason for me to be ripped off by a taxi driver. I bargained and settled with $EC 40 which I thought was expensive - shame on me for being tainted by St Maarten. I found out the fare was cheaper than usual and could have relaxed without thinking I’d been had.
Rodney Bay is the main tourist area in St Lucia, mainly because of the awesome beach and easy access to the airport. I was afraid it would be over developed and full of hustlers etc… everything you come to expect when large 5 star resorts appear in a third world country. But to my surprise everything was very calm and the locals very welcoming. I’d heard about the Friday night ‘jump up’ in a small town called Gros Islet which wasn’t far away. It was a weekly street party filled with rum, reggae and Rasta men enjoying themselves. I’ll admit I went along expecting it to be some tourist driven event and maybe a little crazy.. but I once again was surprised. I caught the local bus and arrived to reggae music being played on small street filled with
From The Air
View of Castaries & Rodney Bay from the air food and alcohol venders. It was a festival both locals and travellers were enjoying and it attracted all the right kind of people - everyone was there to relax and have fun. I don’t know how many times a local did the whole ‘fist hand shake’ (you know what I’m talking about.. some Americans have adopted it as their own) and said “respect man” in an accent that only a Rasta man could manage. I liked that travellers were welcomed and felt at home, not like in St Maarten where we were walking money machines.
I met lots of people from all around the world at the ‘jump up’ and I’d highly recommend it if you’re ever in St Lucia. There was more cricket conversation and stories of the English cricket team partying with the locals in Rodney Bay. Whenever I’d reply to a local that I was from Australia I’d always get the reply “you think you’ll win the world cup and beat West Indies??”. They knew the West Indies were underperforming and they had little chance of winning but the friendly ribbing was priceless. People in St Lucia ‘got’ Australia and knew what we were on about..
'Jump Up'
In Gros Islet... I attempted to take a picture of the 'jump up' and my result was a crap photo (as you can see) maybe it was the ‘no problems’ and ‘hello mates’ that made us more similar. When I offered a lift home from several locals late at night I didn’t hesitate at all. Normally I would… normally I wouldn’t get a lift. In fact, doing that in US or Canada would be suicide. But in St Lucia the Rasta men demanded respect and to cheat a traveller or resident alike was a definite no-go. I got a lift back to my hotel with two friendly couples on the way home. When I told them to drop me off on the side of the road they refused “we said we’d take you all the way and we will”. The drove up the muddy road to my hotel and I remarked that I owe them a beer for their troubles.. “you owe us nothing.. we don’t work like that in St Lucia, enjoy your time here!.. respect”. I’m not a great judge of character but I knew the people giving me a lift home were friendly and honest locals - I was right.
I spent four days in St Lucia overall and I’m struggling to describe what I did after the ‘jump up’..
On The Beach
I don't know how many times I tried to take this photo without looking like a dickhead.. nup... couldn't do it. The sea was too bright. not because I was getting into the local ‘stuff’ either!! I just chilled out and relaxed on the awesome beach. I found a friendly restaurant near the sea with hammocks on the decks and decided it was a good place to hang out.. not once, not twice but three nights in a row. The last two days of my time in Rodney Bay it rained non-stop, but BIG BIG rain of the tropical kind. The rain that puts an end to any outdoor activities and forces you to re-plan everything. I watched some movies on my laptop and caught up on travel blogs (that would explain the mass postings in one day!). I also checked out the cricket so I could better relate to locals and watched familiar channel 9 commentators being beamed into the Caribbean. I also watched the new Pirates Of The Caribbean (well.. if you’re going to watch it.. why not do that in the Caribbean as well???), I discovered that it was filmed on the coast in Dominica where I’d been. The scenery was awesome and again I wished that one day I’d return this non-Australian spot in the world - where you get reactions like
Show me da money!!!
$100 Eastern Caribbean dollars - used in almost every english speaking country in the Caribbean the Americans would have gave us ten years ago.. “whoah!! Australia.. you have those koalas hey?”. St Lucia was more developed than Dominica but it was Caribbean to the core - friendly and very laid back. Never mind the fact you could buy KFC and Burger King next to a rum shack on the beach!
I organised a local taxi driver to give me a lift to the airport early and I checked in all the way to Nice in France. Hard to believe that your bags will arrive in the Cote D’azur from this tiny airport shack in the middle of nowhere.. but that’s what the tags said. A two hour hop and I was back in San Juan, Puerto Rico and awaiting my flight to Madrid with Iberia. I used my Qantas Club lounge pass and spent the day eating and drinking next to well heeled yanks heading to St Barths for that “gorgeous summer break darling”. I think everyone was dressed in white (suits, dresses, coats) except me. I liked the Caribbean but was looking forward to the European adventure ahead - and one step closer to being reunited with my beautiful fiancée. Respect.
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Morb
non-member comment
Hmmm
Did you try the local weed? MUAHAHAHA!!