Granada

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Much cleaner and more globally gentrified than the rest of Nicaragua, Granada is a perfect introduction to the country. If you´re flying into Managua, it's easy to get the hell out of the capital (a sprawling, LA-esque mess) quickly and head two hours south to Nica-lite.

My bus dropped me off near Parque Central (aka Colon), so I decided to wander around a bit to find the Bearded Monkey Hostel. I immediately ran into one of their touts in the square and he took me there. I had emailed them a few days earlier but they never replied, which should have tipped me off that it's poorly run (see bottom if you care about the hostel).

After unloading, I walked around the city awhile and was surprised to see that it actually does have some similarities to Granada, Spain. Nicaragua claims that Granada is the oldest city in North America (but I'm sure plenty of other places would make the same claim), and the colonial architecture in and around the main square is impressive. It´s a very good town for walking and people-watching, though pretty expensive by Nicaraguan standards. I felt very safe and would be fine with getting lost in the streets and markets for a few hours.

I should say that once you get away from the city center, Granada in fact becomes much different than its namesake. It becomes as poor and unattractive as Managua (well, that might be a stretch).

I had planned to walk around the city more the next day and wait until the next ferry to Isla de Ometepe (which was three days later), but I woke up feeling like I wanted to get out of there and maybe return later when I´d need a rest from the grime. I started walking to a bus to go to Lake Apoyo but ran into a guy in the lobby who said I could get to Ometepe by taking a bus to Rivas and then a ferry to the island. After some hot, crowded, standing bus rides and a lunch with two Americans in Rivas, I could see Volcan Concepcion and Volcan Maderas, and I was on my way to the island.

REVIEW: THE BEARDED MONKEY

This Monkey's Beard hasn't been trimmed in awhile. The common area is designed well, with hammocks around the perimeter and free Internet along one wall. However, as always with free Internet, one computer worked slowly, the second is on the screen asking if you want to start Windows normally or in safe mode, and the third is just a monitor. The hammocks are in a slightly better condition -- most are ancient and some have holes big enough to make them unusable.

I should say that the Kiwi who runs the bar does a nice job. He's friendly and cleans up the common area pretty often.

I got a single room for 9.50, but it was pretty worn down. It's the first bed I've stayed in with a second thin (and newer) mattress on top of the first, yet I could still feel the boards underneath sticking through. They charged me a 200 cordoba (10 USD) deposit for a tiny key and padlock, which was ridiculous, and checking out was a confusing ordeal. Aside from the bar man, they weren't terribly friendly or helpful. It might be better to stay at one of the many competing hostels that have sprung up nearby and just visit the Monkey for a drink. After a second trip to Granada, I can say that Hotel Oasis is a much better choice. It's definitely pricier, but the staff is friendlier and the beds are much better.

IGLESIA LA MERCED

Go here and pay the nominal fee to climb to the bell tower. The view is, as advertised, the best in Granada (see photo).

REVIEW: CASA SAN FRANCISCO

When I returned to Granada the third time, I was with my girlfriend, so we stayed at a much nicer place. Casa San Francisco is in a quiet neighborhood very close to the city center -- the perfect location. The staff is helpful and kind and the atmosphere is superb. The courtyard garden is breathtaking and the rooms are comfortable and simple. It is definitely expensive by Nica standards but well worth the splurge. They are recommended by Moon guidebooks and take full advantage of it by raising their prices and having the books for sale in their expensive gift section. They helped us to arrange a kayaking trip through Las Islitas:

KAYAKING LAS ISLITAS

Unfortunately I lost the information about our fabulous tour guide on this trip. It was a 2 1/2 hour journey through the islands that can't be missed. The paddling is easy except for the last 1/2, where you have to paddle about a mile back to the dock. It's interesting to see how many of the islands are for sale and to picture what the area will look like in five years. Plenty of famous people already live in the community that I might consider if I had a million to spare. Arrange the trip through Casa San Francisco, as the guide spoke very good English and was excellent in every way.

There are more photos below.

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Photos

Tormenta
A storm looms over the Catredal de Granada.

Colonial Architecture
Most buildings in central Granada are restored and well-kept.

Gringo Way
The main tourist area is definitely Calle Calzada. It´s lined with coffee and panini shops and the prices are pretty high. It´s a nice walk, though, and in the summer there´s hardly anyone there.

Parque Central o Parque Colon
The locals make the most of this park in the city center -- the vendors line the streets and hundreds walk and play on the paths.

Iglesia de la Merced
A sign in front said that the top is the best view of Granada; I hope to check it out if I make it here again.

Top of the Bell Tower
This is one of many impressive view from the top of La Iglesia la Merced