Matagalpa and Selva Negra

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Matagalpa, like Esteli, is a nice relief from the heat and a good base to explore cloud forests, ecolodges, or even the seldom-visited national parks of northeastern Nicaragua. The city sits in a bowl of mountains, all of which apparently Admittedly, I didn't get to see too much of the city, as I was very sick during my stay here. I mostly watched TV in my hotel room and went for short walks around the city.

There must be more tourism here during other times of year, but I get more stares and glares here than anywhere else I have visited in Nicaragua. As always, people are very friendly once I smile and talk to them, but I get the feeling that they are not used to tourists at all. I haven't seen another tourist in days, which is surprising considering that it is touted in Lonely Planet.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Because I was sick, I stayed at Hotel Fountain Blue, a few blocks and just across the river from the San Pedro Cathedral. It isn't quite as great as Moon Guidebook makes it out to be, but it is clean, the TV works in most rooms, and the women who run the place are helpful and nice. They do laundry cheaply and they have cable TV in most rooms. I paid 18 a night for a private with a bath, but they have some cheaper without bathrooms. It doesn't seem like there is a proper hostel in this town, and though Hotel Alvarez is more Central, it is nice to get away from the traffic a bit.

MONKEY BAR

As of July 2011, this place is still being built. It sits on the other side of the park from Cathedral San Pedro and its all-wood, atypical Nica decor makes it unmistakable, and visited only by rich Nicaraguans and tourists. The food was very good (try the chicken consomme), though a tad pricey.

SELVA NEGRA

I visited Selva Negra for a night and was pretty impressed with it. From Matagalpa, just hop on the bus to Jinotega and tell the driver to stop at Selva Negra. A defunct tank on the side of the road marks the entrance and it is about a one mile walk to the main office, down a manicured path with a variety of plantlife. At the gate, you have to pay 100 cordobas, but the tired man there gives you a ticket that is good for 100 cordobas in the restaurant or gift shop.

True to their heritage, the complex feels more like Germany in Nicaragua than anything home-grown. The owner greeted me on the porch and judging from his interaction with the guests, loves his role and wants everyone to feel at home. Nearly everything in the wonderful restaurant. Tours of the sustainable farm are $7. Ironically, I couldn't drink any of the coffee but bought a bag for $7.

I was too sick to do any hiking, though the grounds look amazing. There are old-growth forests, howler monkeys, birds everywhere,

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Photos

Church Inside
This is another church in the city that I visited with a friend -- I forget the name.