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Published: February 5th 2009
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It seemed we were all alone.
When entering the park, the cupboard-like box office was empty. We made our way down a short lane, not a soul in sight. Large trees joined hands and formed a tunnel of green, the bright midday sun shone over the river at the end. Grinning like Cheshire cats thinking we got away without paying the 40 Lempira entrance fee, half way down the path the ticket man appears. He took our money and offered to take us INTO the waterfall! Surely not. We must have taken him up wrong, lost in translation.
The riverbank was adorned with large leafed trees stepping away from the fast-flowing river. We walked along the riverside path listening to birds singing and water rushing over weirs, hushing like a teacher shushes her students quiet.
We approached a brighter opening down river. With every step, a faint rumble grew stronger. The water up ahead seemed to take off at lightning speed and disappear - a trick of the eye as the river bursts into life. The rumble had now begun to drown out all other sounds. As we descended a steep muddy stairway it was a continuous thunder
of sound, never stopping for breath.
Through the trees, the Pulhapanzak waterfall reveals itself, snow white water in free fall. Beauty and power. A 43 metre step in the Rio Lindo. Loud and proud.
The spray dampens our clothers and face. By the time we meander our way down to the last platform near the river below, water is running down my face. It could have been a wet day in Dublin. The walkway and platform are covered in a green moss as it rains all day every day down there. A few shots are taken superfast and the camera is bundled back into the bag away from the mist´s harm.
At a little eatery back up the river, two fellow travellers recommended us to go see the cave behind the waterfall. We hummed and hawed about the price of 100 Lempiras each. We had found a night´s accommodation for less. But curiousity on a good day wins.
With our belongings safe with the cook, we bravely (or stupidly) headed back to the source of the great rumble. Our guide, Rafael, unlocked the gate at the side of the last platform. The gate is there to
stop people trying to walk through the waterfall without a guide and drowning. How comforting. We went through and the gate was locked behind us. No going back now.
We began to slip and slide our way along the muddy path over huge rocks to the foot of Pulhapanzak. We wore our hiking boots for grip above and below the water (well needed in hindsight). Although we were not yet under the waterfall, the noise was incredible like a downpour of torrential rain. We had to shout at each other to be heard. Time for a few screams and yahoos!
Rafael led Jess, then me, into a neck high pool of water. We gripped onto the rocks to counter the pull of the current and scrambled up the other side. Rafael told us it was going to get difficult to breathe from this point, but we should keep our heads down and breathe through our mouths.
We stumbled into waist high pools, water pushing through our legs trying to sweep us away, all the while water falling from above, beating our backs and forcing the back of our heads down. Not only did we have to gasp
for air but vision was proving difficult. Ironically I felt like a fish out of water. Not being able to see or breath properly for a few minutes was pretty scary (and apparently waterboarding isn´t torture? Yeah right.)
Inside a corridor of water, I lost my direction until I saw Rafael´s hand reach for mine. I took a good firm hold and he pulled me behind the waterfall where Jess was blinking furiously. Her contacts! All was ok, the lenses had stayed in her eyes.
At the back of the waterfall, the noise was reduced. I could look right up the wall of water to the point where gravity first takes hold. It was a spiritually moving sight. Even Rafael, whole eyes have witnessed this many times, seemed genuinely excited.
Clambering along, we reached the cave entrance, a gap just wide enough for the average person (no salad dodgers!). Head first, we crawl in and up to a little chamber. With our hearts still pounding we sat in the pitch black cave and chatted to Rafael about Honduras and Ireland. Not the most likely venue for small talk. After five minutes we crawled back out. This time
we are more prepared for the experience. Jess even leapt off a fifteen foot ledge into a rock pool. Nevermind the contacts, we´ve just walked through a waterfall!
Back at the gate, we stood for a last gaze at Pulhapanzak and smiled triumphantly. And kept smiling while we waited for our boots and clothes to dry in the Honduran sun.
From James
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