La Entrada and Copan Ruinas, Honduras


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Published: July 27th 2006
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Bienvenido a Honduras

With a cool, mountainous interior and a long, warm Caribbean coastline, Honduras is the second largest of the Central American countries. Travel is easy, enjoyable and inexpensive. Among the better-known Honduran attractions are the spectacular Mayan ruins at Copan near the Guatemalan border, with its pyramids, temples and intricately carved stelae (standing stone monuments). La Tigra National Park, just a few kilometers from Tegucigalpa , the capital, is a lush, cool cloud forest. Several other cloud forests are also protected in national arks - La Muralla, Celaque, Cusuco, and Pico Bonito are the most accessible for visitors.



Copan Ruins

Designated by UNESCO as a world heritage site,
Copan Ruins is about 1 kilometer outside town a pleasant 15 minute stroll along a footpath to one side of the highway. Admission includes entry to Las Sepulturas archaeological site, a couple of kilometers further along.



History

Ceramic evidence shows that people have been living in the Copan valley since at least around 1200 BC and probably before that. Copan must have had significant commercial activity since early times; graves showing significant Olmec influence have been dated to around 900 to 600 BC. Around AD 426, one royal family came to rule Copan, led by a mysterious king named Mah K'ina Yax K'uk' Mo' (Great Sun Lord and Quetzal Macaw), who ruled from AD 426 to 435. Archeaological evidence indicates that he was a great shaman; later kings revered him as the semi-divine founder of the city. The dynasty ruled throughout Copan's florescence during the Classic period (AD 250-900). Of the early kings who ruled from about 435 to 628 we know little. Only the names of some of the rulers have been deciphered; Mat Head, the second king; Cu Ix, the fourth king; Waterlily Jaguar, the seventh king; Moon Jaguar, the 10th; and Butz' Chan, the 11th. Among the greatest of Copan's kings was Smoke Imix (Somke Jaguar), the 12th king, who ruled from 628 to 695. Somke Imix was wise, forceful and rich, and he built Copan into a major military and commercial power in the region. He might have even taken over the nearby princedom of Quirigua, as one of the famous stelae bears his name and image. By the time he died in 695, Copan's population had grown significantly. At its peak, Copan is thought to have supported about 20,000 people. Smoke Imix was succeeded by Uaxaclahun Ubak K'awil (18 Rabbit; 695-738), the 13th king, who willingly took the reins of power and pursued further military conquest. In a war with his neighbor, King Cauac Sky, 18 Rabbit was captured and beheaded, to be succeeded by Smoke Monkey (738-749), the 14th king. Smoke Monkey's short reign left little mark on Copan. In 749, Smoke Monkey was succeeded by his son Smoke Shell (749-763), one of Copan's greatest builders. He commissioned the construction of the city's most famous and important monument, the great Hieroglyphic Stairway, which immortalizes the achievements of the dynasty from its establishment until 755, when the stairway was dedicated. It is the longest such inscription ever discovered in the Mayan lands. Yax Pac (Sunrise or First Dawn, 763-820), Smoke Shell's successor and the 16th king of Copan, continued the beautification of Copan, though it seems that the dynasty's power was declining and its subjects had fallen on hard times. The final aspirant to the throne, U Cit Tok', became ruler in 822, but it is not known when he died. Until recently, the collapse of the civilization at Copan has been a mystery. Now, archaeologists are starting to understand what happened. Apparently, near the end of Copan's heyday, the population grew at an unprecedented rate, straining agricultural resources; in the end, Copan was no longer agriculturally self-sufficient and had to import food from other areas. The urban core expanded into the fertile lowlands in the center of the valley, forcing both agriculture and residential areas to spread into the steep slopes surrounding the valley. Wide areas were deforested, resulting in massive erosion that further decimated agricultural rainy seasons. Skeletal remains of people who died during the final years of Copan's heyday show marked evidence of malnutrition and infectious disease, as well as decreased lifespan. The Copan Valley was not abandoned overnight - agriculturalists probably continued to live in the ecologically devastated valley for maybe 100 or 200 more years - but by the year 1200 or thereabouts even the farmers had departed, and the royal city of Copan was reclaimed by the jungle.



The first known Europeans to see the ruins was Diego Garcia de Palacios, a representative of Spanish King Felipe II, who lived in Guatemala and traveled through the region. On March 8, 1576, he wrote to the king about the ruins he found here. Only about five families were living here then, and they knew nothing of the history of the ruins. The discovery was not pursued, and almost three centuries went by until another Spaniard, Colonel Juan Galindo, visited the ruins and made the first maps of them. Galindo's report stimulated Americans John L. Stephens and Frederick Catherwood to come to Copan on their Central American journey in 1839. When Stephens published the book Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan in 1841, illustrated by Catherwood, the ruins first became known to the world at large.



The history of the ruins continues to unfold today, as archaeologists continue to probe the site. The remains of 3,450 structures have been found in the 24 square-kilometers surrounding the Principal Group. In a wider zone, 4,509 structures have been detected in 1,420 sites within 135 square-kilometers of the ruins. These discoveries indicated that at the peak of Mayan civilization here, around the end of the 8th century, the valley of Copan had over 20,000 inhabitants - a population not reached again until the 1980s. In addition to examining the areas around the Principal Group, archaeologists are continuing to explore and make new discoveries at the Principal Group itself. Five separate phases of building on this site have been identified; the final phase, dating from AD 650 to 820, is what we see today. But buried underneath the visible ruins are layers of other ruins, which archaeologists are exploring by means of underground tunnels. This is how the Rosalila temple was found, a replica of which is now in the Museum of Sculpture; below Rosalila is yet another, earlier temple, Margarita.



Our Experience

Once we were on the Honduran side of the border, we took a taxi to the nearest town (and bus terminal) in Nuevo Ocotepeque. From there, we bussed all the way up to La Entrada. We lost an hour when we enterd Honduras, so by the time we reached La Entrada it was 20 minutes after 5PM and the last bus to Copan Ruinas (another 2.5 hours down the road) had already departed La Entrada. We contemplated taking a taxi from La Entrada to Copan Ruinas, but it would have cost us $30 US dollars... way more than we would pay for a night in La Entrada and a bus to Copan Ruinas the next day - so we opted to stay. It was a funny decision, because when we consulted our guidebook on where to stay it said:

Something must have gone wrong for you to be stuck in La Entrada...



Not a good omen, but we made due. We found a nice little hotel, a much needed ATM, and had a fantastic semi-buffet dinner. Joe had the best refried beans he has had all trip! After dinner we read for a bit and then I went to sleep. When Joe was ready to crash, he got up to flipped the light off and received the shock of a lifetime. I woke up to him on his hands and knees in absolute agony. I asked if he was all right, and he managed to tell me the switch had shocked him and he was fine... but he stayed on the ground for a while. I was pretty sleepy... so the situation didn't really register with me, but it must have sucked.

Joe's Note: Seriously, I'm going to be paranoid about touching a light switch for a while. It hurt. Big time. The next thing I knew after I had flipped the light switch was that I was on the ground. It felt like every part of my body had taken a punch from a 300 lb lineman. I ended up dropping the flashlight I was carrying, but as soon as I recovered I managed to pick it up and crawl into bed. But it wasn't over. For the next three hours or so, I simply could not sleep. Nothing felt right. It took until the next morning for me to feel 100%. Faulty wiring sucks.

The next morning we had breakfast at our yummy buffet restaurant and then went to catch the bus to Copan Ruinas. My Spanish has been sufficient thus far... but trying to figure out where exactly to catch the bus was perplexing. Eventually, we settled on a spot that locals had repeatedly pointed us towards (but definitely didn't look like a bus stop!).

We arrived in Copan Ruinas around 1PM. Joe selected a LOVELY hostel for us - at the top of TWO LARGE hills. I was not happy. In fact, I stopped talking to him halfway up. The hostel, however, was indeed lovely. If you are coming to Copan Ruinas and wish to stay in the hotel Calle Real, I strongly encourgage you to take a cheap motorcycle-esque taxi up the hills. It is worth the $$.

Joe's Note: Is the taxi really worth it? Yeah, but it's only worth it because it would cost like 13.5 cents to go up the hill, not because the hill was all that difficult. And keep in mind this is coming from me, the guy who almost died going up Pacaya ( a.k.a. Mount Doom). And this hotel has shaded hammocks on top of it. Three cheers for roof hammocks!

Lila's Retort: Um... shade is only good if there is sun... and it has NOT been sunny. And, has Joe (or will Joe) ever sit in said "shady hammocks"?... I think not! But, he might now - just to spite me. We'll see.

So anyway, after checking in, we grabbed some food quickly and made our way out to the ruins (only a 15 minute walk straight out of town on a nice path along the road). As you enter the actual site, they have really colorful parrots (pirate style... yay pirates) all along the fence. Then you enter the site. It was smaller in terms of sheer acreage than I imagined, but that was simply because it was very compact. All the temples almost ran together, and they were quite impressive. Everything was much more detailed than the other ruins we had visited. The perfect example is the hieroglyphic staircase: a huge staircase up one of the temples where every individual stair is beautifully carved. All in all the ruins were very impressive. They even have excavation tunnels that you can walk through, but those cost extra. Fortunately for us, it only drizzled for a little bit while we were there. The sky was definitely threatening more than that.

After visiting the ruins we walked back to town and found an internet shop. The internet, however, was slow as dirt. (Dirt doesn't move on it's own... and neither did this internet.) While we were waiting on the internet to do anything it started to rain. It wasn't funny trekking across town in a drizzle to find yet another internet shop but we did it. However, we only got to use this new, slightly faster internet connection for about 45 minutes before the power went out. Storms are not our friend. After getting ousted by the power outage, we found our way to a cafe-restaurant and had a long supper while it rained all around us. After dinner (and the storm) we went back to our speedy internet cafe and completed some blogs. Then we trudged up the hill to our hotel and went to sleep.

The next morning we got up early and went back to the ruins to see the on site museum another traveller recommended highly. It was great. A complete reconstruction of the Rosalila temple and lots of stone sculptures and other such artifacts from the ruins. Copan is famous for all it's intricate stonework and the two-story museum exhibited (and preserved) it nicely! After walking around the museum for about an hour, we walked back to our hotel and grabbed our packs. We decided to walk down to the nice restaurant in town and splurge on a super breakfast. Well... the restaurant was nice and had AC (which is always a plus), but the food - although quite delicious - wasn't any better than any other breakfast we've had down here. So, no more breakfast splurges. (I should note that this "splurge" only cost us $10 USD.)

After breakfast we headed to the bus port and caught the next bus out of town (40 minutes later). From Copan Ruinas we had to back track to La Entrada... change buses and head to Santa Rosa de Copan... change buses again and head to Gracias. It was a long, bus ridin' day but we managed to make it to Gracias by about 5PM.

Up Next...

Gracias, Honduras (a cute little mountain town).





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