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Published: March 29th 2009
Desayuno Tipico
Sudeep enjoying a typical Guatemalan breakfastIt is day one. I am sitting on the terrace of the Casa Encantada (sipping orange juice, tucking into a hearty breakfast of eggs, black beans, salsa, cream and toast). The skies are clear and for miles, all I can see are bougainvillea lined streets and in the distance, Fuego, or fire, one of the two active volcanoes in Antigua’s neighbourhood. A hummingbird chirps in the background.
Welcome to Antigua, the medieval capital of the Spanish Empire in Central America. Thanks to some very effective preservation tactics by the local government (pebbled streets, limited choice of wall colours, wooden grills), the city retains much of its old world, post-classical charm. An instant sense of relief, calm and contentment fills me - even after a gruelling 15 hr journey that took us from London to Miami and then on to Guatemala City; even though I know that we are climbing Pacaya - the other active volcano. Almost on cue, we are informed that Emmanuel, our guide for the day is there. Emmanuel is Guatemalan of Spanish descent. He speaks impeccable English, as does Carlos, our driver. Both Pacaya and Fuego have been active since the morning;
throughout our one hour drive to the Pacaya Natural Park we can see both volcanoes spew smoke and more.
It has been a busy day at Pacaya with a lot of visitors today. However, we will not be allowed to go all the way up to the summit (and in my heart of hearts I am relieved). The 2.5hr trek begins with a steep climb and we pass through forest, meadows, high trees and lava rocks. The edge where the green ends and the black lava rock begins is a breathtaking view - of Guatemala City and beyond. This is a perfect setting for lunch comprising of salad, crab cakes and some fine Spanish wine. The first item in our itinerary is ticked off. And hey, I just climbed up a live volcano!
Its 5pm and fighting fatigue, broken legs and other protesting limbs, we shower and make our way into town - such is the temptation to explore! Today is a Sunday and in the run-up to Easter, the Guatemalans are celebrating Semana Santa (or holy week). A procession has been planned which will end with a grand celebration in the main town square. Sudeep and I
walk leisurely ending up in Avenue 5; the sun is setting and the procession is due at 7:30pm. We take refuge in a quaint, apothecary-styled bar and order a bottle of red Chilean and some nibbles.
The procession is slightly delayed but when it arrives the entire area explodes in celebration - drums, guitars, balloons - it’s all happening on this tiny street. Many locals are part of the procession, dressed in purple robes marking lent. The tableaux bearers approach us, swaying from side to side to balance the weight. Jesus, the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene make an appearance. Some visitors join in the celebration. We are later informed that with each passing weekend, the ceremony and the procession gets more ostentatious culminating in a grand Easter weekend.
Procession over, we head over next door to La Fonda for some authentic Antiguan cuisine. As we enjoy dinner, the scene outside starts to wind down....and we head back to our hotel for a sound night’s sleep (of course, only to be woken up by some severe tremors at 3am.... volcanoes, earthquakes - it’s all happening here!).
Most of Guatemala is catholic; however, it is not uncommon to
Can I buy all please
At the Artisan market in Antigua find Mayan gods being workshipped alongside Christian saints in many churches. And many priests, we are told, encourage this. A lesson for the rest of the world perhaps?
Day two takes us through the various calles and avenues of Antigua. Jane, our guide for the day, is from Jersey, came to Guatemala as a backpacker and never went back. Clichéd as it might sound, Antigua IS quaint. Flanked by active and dormant volcanoes and the Sierra Madre in the distance, the town was once the capital of the powerful Spanish empire in Central America. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the town has been rebuilt over the years as the region sits on three tectonic plates... We walk to the grand city hall, the Cathedral de Santiago (built in 1543, semi-destroyed by earthquakes), the Merced, the central plaza, the Palace of the Captain General. Antigua has strict building laws - only specific colours are allowed on the facade and no neon signs and no, not even the famous McDonald’s arch. Dark wood dominates with intricate carvings, red, blue and yellow walls. And then there is the jade - reputed to be the best in the world. We get a mask
of the Tikal corn lord and a necklace for me. The day ends with a special dinner at Meson Panza Verde, regarded the best restaurant in Guatemala. It has been a perfect day.
Leg 2: Lago de Atitlan and Chichicastenango Nestled in the Western Highlands of Guatemala is the ethereal and mystical Lago de Atitlan (Lake Atitlan) - surrounded by three dormant volcanoes - Santiago, Atitlan and San Pedro - Atitlan was formed when a ‘super volcano’ exploded forming an enormous caldera some 85,000 years ago giving us the deepest lake in Central America (and the second largest in Guatemala). Aldos Huxley believed it to be the most beautiful lake in the world and looking the vistas ahead of me I cannot disagree. The view is serene as it is breathtaking. Atitlan is a special lake as it is home to three distinct Mayan tribes, carefully preserving their art (textiles and wood work), culture and way of life. Panajachel is the main town where many tourists head for lunch, dinner and drinks (enjoy margaritas and traditional fare at Sunset Cafe). We spend a day exploring the village of Santiago watching local weavers at work, the Maximon ceremonies and
God's own country
View of Lake Atitlan and the peaks of Atitlan, Santiago and San Pedro local teachers enjoying a game of basketball. In the evenings, we trek across to Panajachel, and enjoy the sunset from our balcony.
At Chichicastenango (‘Chichi’), at least 300 different tribes assemble every Thursday and Sunday to trade their wares - wood, textiles, jewellery, incense, etc. It is also home to the holy Santo Tomas Church and the Mayan temple of the underworld. Chichi is an explosion of colours, sounds and smells. The market is milling with tourists and locals - people are here to do serious business and we join in the fun. Sudeep, especially excels at bargaining and wins a lot of praise from Sarah, our guide for the day. I buy some jade bracelets, some knick-knacks for the house. What we enjoy the most is soaking in the atmosphere - it is a beautiful sunny day and everyone is making the most of it. Chichi epitomised Guatemala - so rich in art and culture and blessed with a variety of fruit and vegetables - something that one doesn’t see in most parts of the world today. They may be ‘deemed’ poor by the ‘first world’ but the Guatemalans are proud people who have fought to preserve their
history, their wildlife and their forests.
They are beginning to move away from the bitter memories of the civil war and forge a new identity and see themselves as a key player in Latin America. They are confident of the future and determined to make a difference.
Leg 3: Tikal and Copan Leg Three of the holiday takes us to the tiny island town of Flores on the Peten Itza lake. Flores is the base camp for those visiting the fantastic, beautifully preserved Mayan ruins of Tikal. Accommodation options in the Peten include the La Lancha owned by no less than Francis Ford Coppola on the outskirts of Flores (45 min from town in the midst of the forest). However, should you choose to stay here, you might just miss out on a great meal at the La Luna in Flores town that offers the best selection of grilled fish with some chilled Gallo (the local Guatemalan beer - best I have had in a while). Our hotel just across the causeway in Santa Elena was perfect to explore Flores in the evenings.
Tikal dates back to the 4th century BC, finally abandoned by the Mayans
The Caribbean
At Turquoise Bay in 900 AD, due to invasions and over population. The ruins lie protected by rain forests, the ubiquitous Ceiba tree among those standing guard. Tikal offers a glimpse into the lives of the mighty Mayans, people who were warriors but also appreciated and understood art. It is home to some fascinating wildlife including the spider and howler monkeys, toucans, cougars and jaguars. We also catch glimpses of a beautiful red-neck bird - we never find out what it is. While we get to see the colourful and almost boisterous Macaw both in Guatemala and then again in Honduras, the Quetzal stays away living up to its reputation of being a shym enigmatic bird, worthy of worship.
Interestingly, none of the doors of the temples of Tikal remain in Guatemala having been ‘taken away’ by Swiss ‘explorers - apparently, they now are in some museum in Berne, unknown to most of the Swiss! As we climb up the highest temple and consider the view before us, of the forest and the odd temple dome peaking out, you cannot help but marvel at the industry and enterprise of the Mayans, who with very little created so much. Our guide Ismail informs
At Tikal
The centre of activity us that the Guatemalan government is now in talks with the governments of Switzerland and USA to get their artefacts back - a lot has been taken away in the name of research. I wish them luck.
Copan, which lies just across the Honduran border, is another Mayan site - different from Tikal - less grand but with more intricate stone work and carvings, smaller but prettier temples. The most fascinating of the works is the hieroglyphical staircase which offers the Mayans a path to their ancestors - a window to the ‘other world’. There are magnificent statues of their greatest king 'Eighteen Rabbit' and some even have mongol features. We really do not get an explanation as to how that might have happened.
The nearby sleepy village of Copan Ruinas reminded us of Antigua but it is smaller, quieter. Lunch is at the eclectic Via Via run by Belgians and we shop for some Honduran cigars and of course my $15 dress! We spend the night at another colonial house before heading on to San Pedro Sula, the commercial capital of the Honduras, to catch our flight to Roatan.
Leg 4: Roatan and the Bay Magroves on the sea
Canoeing to the mangroves each evening while at Roatan Islands
This is the final part of the holiday - we have been away for 10 days and time has just flown by! Roatan is the largest of the Honduran Bay Islands in the Caribbean Sea. The airport lies mid-way between the east and the west ends of the island. The east end has the nice resorts while the west end has the entertainment - clubs, bars and of course the shops!
Less than 60km long, Roatan is popular but not crowded, with most of the Caribbean tourists heading for fancier Costa Rica or nearby Belize. Roatan was colonised/ occupied by the British (even though the rest of the Honduras was a Spanish colony) and therefore English is widely spoken. Garifuna is a popular culture embodied in the music and art of the islands. Roatan is popular for its diving sites; however, if diving is not your passion, you have the choice of snorkelling or just getting a canoe to enjoy the sunset. And this is exactly what I did for 4 entire days. Our resort, the beautiful Turquoise Bay, has its own private beach protected by a boundary of mangrove. Big breakfasts, lunch on the resort’s private beach
At Cafe Condesa
Sudeep enjoying Michelada - Beer, worcestershire sauce, tabasco, lime and salt (east end of the island) and lobsters/ crabs for dinner - now that is a nice way to end a brilliant holiday. Oh yes, there was this meek attempt at diving which was quickly abandoned. Sudeep of course chose to spend time with sharks, eels and some odd wreck he found 30m under water!
Saying adios! Or manyana if I have a choice... its been 15 days, 12 flights and yet I leave wanting more. As we leave Roatan and fly in to La Ceiba to continue our journey back to London, I am left wonderstruck. A year ago, I knew nothing about either country - except that they were there... but isn’t that why George Mallory wanted to scale the Everest - because it was there?
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