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Published: December 26th 2007
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We took another shuttle to Lago Atitlan. It should have been quicker, going direct, but it took 50 minutes just to get around Antigua and pick up all the passengers.
It was a long but lovely drive, with a well timed pee stop at the turnoff for the lake. We also had a photo stop as we followed the road down to Panajachel. Panajachel was a bit of a shock. All touristy. Full of shops and restaurants. I think the driver took us to the wrong dock. Wrong because kids started dragging us down to the boats, quoting some other people ridiculous prices, initially Q$500 or Q$50. We knew it would be more like Q$10 so were OK when it was offered at Q$20. They were awfully quick to take our money. The lake was clear and gorgeous. It was quite a pleasant ride. But the guy refused to take one English couple where they wanted to go and reconfirming a stop in San Juan the guy said he would only go to San Pedro because of lack of petrol. That was bullshit and seeing we were unhappy he gave us some money back. Then he decided to go to
San Juan and asked for the money again. Needless to say we were happy to get off. This behaviour was not normal for the kind and generally honest people of Central America (except taxi drivers of course).
We were going to visit Jennifer in San Juan. We had met her in El Salvador and she was volunteering here. The only budget option was the hotel where Jennifer was staying, Hotel Estrella del Lago. And it was a very good deal. For US$8 a night we had a bathroom and cable TV. It was very comfortable with hammocks and a great view from the roof. Jennifer wasn't there when we arrived but one of her fellow volunteers, Lucy, pointed us to an inexpensive restaurant around the corner with a great view of the lake. Jennifer returned later that evening with her 2 friends, both called Erin. These guys volunteered at a day center for children with learning disabilities. We also met another volunteer, Kim, who worked with local farmers, helping them to get the best price for their produce.
San Juan is very small but they were prepared for tourists with maps of the town, signs, and a tourist
office. The girls had afternoons free so we arranged a cultural tour through the tourist office. They could only provide a Spanish speaking guide but between Erin and myself (Rae) we managed to translate bits. Erin's Spanish was much better. We visited a number of womans cooperatives, mostly weaving. Using natural dyes their work was really rather lovely. One place was a herb garden used in traditional medicine. At the last place Pieter found me a woven blue elephant for my collection.
We spent quite a bit of time in the next town over, San Pedro. Only a Q$5 tuk-tuk ride away, San Pedro is a real bohemian type hangout, popular with people taking Spanish lessons. We found a smelly market and unimpressive church, but walking down a track by the lake, passing fields and hotels and Spanish schools and thermal baths, it was quite pleasant.
We ate quite well in San Pedro also. Our second night we went with Jennifer, the 2 Erins, Kim and 2 dutch guys (volunteering setting up water pumps), to Picasso. We all shared a Raclette which is basically cheese melted under a grill on the table with a variety of accompaniments. The
cheese was fantastic, Swiss style but surprisingly made in Guatemala. Another favourite was the Buddha Bar. They had Hookahs which are these tall water pipe devices used in the middle east. The smoke comes flavoured. I tried Banana flavoured with Jennifer. They also had cats. One really lovely place was Zoo La. They had lovely seating areas with logs and cushions and low tables. We had a record stint there one afternoon. It started raining and then the power went out. Nothing much else to do, we stayed there with the girls for 7 hours. They could still prepare simple food and hot chocolate on their gas stove. We learnt a new card game called 'Shithead'. The person left with all the cards is the shithead.
One evening I (Rae) went with Jennifer and Erin to the thermal pools. Not natural, the water is heated in bladders during the heat of the day. With 30 minutes notice they will fill up a concrete tub in the garden with hot water. It was not that hot but still pleasant. We sat in the water and drank beer and chatted for a couple of hours. While the girls went to the
San Juan
At one of the co-operatives we visited Buddha Bar, I decided to go back to San Juan as it was now 11:30 pm and Pieter might be wondering where I was. Unfortunately I seemed to be too late for a tuk-tuk. I waited at the turnoff to San Juan for a bit, chatting to the drunks. I went to 2 bars to see if they could sort me out a tuk-tuk. One guy tried to help but couldn't get anyone on the phone. Eventually a doorman helped me out for Q$5. I paid the tuk-tuk Q$25 for the ride and was happy to arrive at the hotel some time around 1 am. The gate was locked and I didn't notice the access open from the side, so I climbed the fence. Felt a little silly but no one saw me.
Another afternoon with the girls we went horse riding. At Q$75 (US$10) each for 3 hours it was a good deal. We headed east around the volcano. Our guide, Joseph, was quite grumpy really but we enjoyed the ride that went from paved to dirt road to dirt trail. It was so pretty with long grass that you could touch from the horse, lots of flowers
and trees. We went a certain distance before coming back a little way for a beach stop. Poor Erin had trouble with her horse. He first slammed her knee into a tree. And getting off at the beach stop, he kicked her. Needless to say, she was in pain. But she still made it down to the beach. It was not such a nice day so none of us went in the water, only Joseph. After he was out and dress he started doing cartwheels down the beach, falling awkwardly and losing things out of his pocket. It was very strange but also amusing. Pieter and the Erins had a good gallop on the way back while Jennifer and I preferred a slower pace.
Twice in San Pedro we were followed by dogs. The first followed us on a long walk and into an internet cafe before he found someone else to follow. The second was Joseph's dog who followed us after the horse ride and into a restaurant where he sat under the table waiting for his share.
In all we spent 6 days in San Juan. We delayed our departure for one day due to illness.
We really enjoyed San Juan and San Pedro and most of all the company of Jennifer and Erin and Erin.
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