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Published: September 19th 2007
Hi again... I'm getting lazier and lazier with this (my homework).... Hope everyone is good and well as per usual... Happy Birthday everyone I've managed to miss *Hangs head in shame*. Yes, Happy Belated Birthday wishes to Carl, David, Jamie, Matt, Paul and Maz - Real sorry! I’m sure you had a blast without me though eh? Well it's a little later than previously mentioned in my earlier blog from Xela but hey, I’m busy doing nothing - okay!
Heading out from Xela on a tourist shuttle bus to Lake Atitlan was an experience in itself, at the time of our journey major road works along the mountain route were holding traffic up for considerable periods at a time, allowing us to vacate the vehicle, stretch our legs and buy snacks from the myriad sales folk who pounced on the captive audience to ply their wares. All the time people are jockeying for position in their cars, buses and 4x4's, engines revving, getting restless and chomping at the bit ready for the GO sign to appear. When that time finally came it produced thick belches of black smoke and a mad dash through the single file lane, with every mode
Journey From Xela
White knuckle ride - Can ya tell what it is yet?of transport vying for pole position, Wacky Races eat your heart out! The journey got more fraught as the misty clouds descended upon the mountain route-way with virtually zero visibility our driver preceded at a high speed. Huge truck lights would beam out from the abyss ahead leaving scant seconds to subtly steer us from the oncoming danger, the driver completely oblivious to the passengers gasps in the rear, just another day in the office to him I suspect. Exciting it certainly was and after this entertainment we swapped vehicles in a little mountain town and proceeded to our destination at a more leisurely pace.
The wonder, the joy, the sheer spectacle of Lake Atitlan is simply breathtakingly beautiful. Nature and geology in its most elemental with rugged mountains and volcanoes surrounding a massive pool of water.... it's simply awe inspiring. The journey in our shuttle took us to Panajachel, a small market town, perfectly geared up to travellers of all budgets. We already had plans on our destination though (via the local Revue magazine) and so knew exactly where we were headed. Our destination was the Pueblo of Santa Cruz namely the 'Hotel Isla Verde' that caught our
eye in the local brochure. Due to the fact that there is no ring road around the lake our new home was only reachable by the local 'lancha' (boats), complete with its own ‘Capitan’ who will ferry you across. From 'Pana' expect to be paying 10 Quetzales for the journey - something we found out later having paid 20 on a few trips. After bundling our entire luggage on the lancha we headed off on a choppy lake, bumping and grinding over the depths with breathtaking landscapes on all sides to digest. .
As mentioned before we had planned on staying at the Hotel Isla Verde for the duration of our trip to the Lake and had email correspondence, prior to arriving at Santa Cruz. Somewhere, somehow communications had broken down, and on arrival at our desired destination we found it completely empty with no sign of life... Doh! So with the night suddenly upon us we searched the shoreline for suitable alternative accommodation and luckily came up trumps with Arc De Noe (Noah's Ark). Anna & Wolfgang are your hosts at this bona-fide eco-resort complete with solar powered hot water and electricity from a charged battery. Accommodation comes
in the shape of individual 1-2 berth wooden cabanas set in a carefully manicured garden with breath taking views of the Lake. To top it all off we find out that Anna cooks a fabulous 6 course dinner every evening made completely from fresh and she also serves proper tea in a pot - woo hoo! The following day we find out that the owner from Isla Verde was held up in traffic the previous day and was overwhelmingly apologetic about letting us down. At the time we were happy where we were, however after a couple of loud nights courtesy of the next door Iguana Hostel (been there done that!) we could not resist the seclusion and extra luxury that the Isla Verde had to offer and after a brief stay at the Arc decided to up sticks and move home.
Managed by Miguel & Jasper the Hotel Isla Verde is a fabulous get away retreat in the true sense of the word. Nestled in tropical undergrowth with 8 wooden cabanas set vertically up the mountainside, it’s an invigorating climb to your accommodation but the effort is rewarded with more amazing views. The whole place has a very
laid back feel with a delightful low level lounge / dining area with impressive views over the lake, chill out areas set in the gardens with hot-tub (out of action during our visit), free wireless internet access, an excellent selection of chilled tunes caressing your ears, hearty breakfasts, fresh juices, cocktails and a deliciously tasty 3 course meal in the evening - we had found a top new home for the next 4 weeks.
Our stay at Santa Cruz coincided with the beginning of the rainy season, which meant (almost like clockwork) you would be blessed with blue skies and blazing sunshine from early morning ‘til mid afternoon, then the clouds would begin to make their presence felt and block out the suns golden rays and as the grey turned to black the rains would commence. Finally as the night encroached we would get a ring side seat as mother nature gave us spectacular lightning shows and thunderstorms which against a volcanic lake backdrop, takes you to a deep forgotten era in pre-historic times where nature truly rules with a potency. In a lot of ways, with the weather as it was, reminded me of England’s fine summers -
occasional sun and regular rain…
The Lake is scientifically termed a ‘Caldera’ which was formed millions of years ago - the whole site was once a ridiculously large volcano which got blocked with solidified lava like a gigantic cork on a bottle, now instead of the cork being blown out in a mother of all eruptions it kept growing and growing until it collapsed under its own weight, which then allowed the surrounding rivers to flow into the gaping hole it left behind. Over the years the lava pushed its way up and created the surrounding volcanoes that now preside over the 1000ft deep petrified lake. Due to this pairing of fire and water (masculine towers of rock and feminine depths of its waters) the energy in the air is positively humming and as such draws a diverse crowd of healers, mystics, egocentrics and clairvoyants around its shores offering all manner of treatments for all pockets from a quick reading of your tarot or horroscope to full on premier pampering at fabulous retreats and spas. If you are interested about what’s on offer spiritually at the lakes I recommend you read my beautiful ladies journey into ‘the other side’
Santa Cruz - Pitaya
This fruit is absolutely gorgeous - inside is bright purple at the following:
The Soul Cultivator - I must say its very, very interesting stuff - honestly good stuff you should check out…. yeah I know she’s me girlfriend.
So what was I doing here for nearly 7 weeks? Well apart living and breathing and taking in the marvels of nature that are in abundance here, Claire and I decided to brush up on our Spanish speaking skills, and luckily Anna (Arc De Noe) put us in touch with Pedro who runs his own Spanish school around the lakes and we were treated to one on one Spanish tuition direct at the hotel we were staying at - how cool is that! After 2 weeks of gradual progress both Claire and I were beginning to get tongue-tired and so called a halt to lessons as we judged that we knew enough to get by, Claire then decided to throw all her energies into her spiritual soul cultivating, whilst I read a shed load of Sci-Fi books namely Douglas Adams - Hitchhikers Guide To Galaxy series 1-5, Greg Bear’s Forge of God & Anvil Of Stars & Arthur C Clarke’s Rendezvous With Rama 1 & 2 - all thoroughly enjoyable. I also
played online as much as possible and smoked a great big bag of natures green with various friendly folk from around the lake and even went rock hunting with a guy called Cameron who was in the process of constructing his home from home on the lakes idyllic shores.
Apart from visiting the other local Pueblos around the lake we did take a day trip out to Chichistenago (Chi-Chi) market that is ‘the’ destination to purchase handicrafts and textiles, livestock and groceries - it’s a vibrantly colourful experience, crowded with the locals full of noise, sweat and a bargain to be had. The market takes over a good portion of the town’s streets and is an endless parade of patterned wonder. If you can’t find what you are after here… then god help you. Whilst at Chi-Chi we took a wander away from the thronging crowds and took in the local cemetery that caught our eyes - row upon row of brightly coloured tombs the size of garden sheds, mostly be-decked with fresh flowers and offerings. The cemetery had a small shrine roughly in the centre where locals where conducting fire ceremonies and cleansing rituals, the poor shrine itself
Isla Verde - Strange Wildlife
Oompah is everyones best friend paid testament to many a burnt offering looking charcoal grey and smoke damaged following years of fires thrown up against its sacred walls. We kept our distance and snapped a few snaps wary of our presence interrupting something we shouldn’t be.
We finally ended up in Panajachel for the final week of our stay and treated ourselves at the Regis Hotel, which is very comfortable and was only a stones throw away from a truly magnificent cake shop - mmmm! Claire was finishing off her treatments and I was finishing off my books, and so the story comes to an end. I cannot fully describe the appeal and wonder of Lake Atitlan; it’s probably something unique to everyone who happens across its charms. It’s its own thing and if I ever need some inspiration or spiritual revitalising in the years ahead - this is where you will probably find me.
So until next time, adios amigos and hasta luego :o)
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