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Published: February 10th 2008
Breakfast in Coban
Muy, muy delicioso!The bus ride to Coban was the first of what's sure to be many intriguing, confusing, and harrowing rides.
We got to the bus in Guatemala City, which was about the size of a Ford Econovan, and they crammed no less than 25 people .
We were unable to sit together and our bags were unexpectedly whisked to the roof, which only compounded the overwhelming sense of being out of our element.
We rumbled up winding roads, passing other cars around blind corners while screeching the tires as we held the exact point of equilibrium between remaining upright and... not.
Many brown ears bobbed and lolled in front of us as everyone uncontrollably dozed in such conditions of discomfort that we were sure it was induced by mass amounts of carbon monoxide.
Although amusing at first, we began to get a bit annoyed that instead of leaning on one another, we were forced to support the drooping heads of our companions.
Looking out the windows between naps, we saw dusty villages, one-room comedors, and auto hotels.
As we climbed the lushness grew and the green spread.
Crucifixion
A place the locals pause to give thanks and leave offerings Trying to date the place would be futile - except for the plastics and the snappy billboards it could be the 1940s.
We arrived in Coban after dark and got out at the wrong stop but the smiles of people we passed quickly assuaged our fears at being lost.
We found a hostel and muddled our way through ordering dinner in Spanish for the first time .
The breakfast the next the morning was the most wonderful start to our travels.
We felt so lucky to be together, on vacation, drinking in the culture and delicious coffee, and surviving on our meager Spanish skills.
We've been acutely aware of the different mix of people, clothing, lifestyles and attitudes - a short, Mayan woman in a beautiful, hand-woven skirt, carrying a basket atop her head will be followed be a woman in jeans and high heels talking on her cell phone.
Buildings are old and colorful and often it's difficult to tell what a shop does or sells, even when looking in!
Our anxiety has been wearing off as people seem very friendly and warm and have
Ascending to greatness
The stone steps on the north edge of Coban been
extremely patient with us.
We climbed a hefty, white staircase on the outskirts of town that led to an impressive colonial Catholic church and graveyard.
Greeting us was a sweeping view of the city with its hazy, wondrous mountains and hillsides behind.
There were a few people inside lighting candles, chanting and singing, and we left as mass began, passing a slew of worshippers on our way down.
It turned out to be Ash Wednesday and we came eye-to-forehead with ashy crosses the rest of the night.
Back at our hostel we feasted on bread and avocados and listened to hymns from the Evangelic church next door.
The next morning we awoke before dawn to catch the early bus to Semuc Champey ...
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