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Published: July 10th 2006
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Having recharged the batteries at the Finca Ixobel, I boarded a bus for the Island town of Flores which sits on the Lago de Peten Itza in the Peten region of the Country. This town would be our base camp for the next 2 days, and our launching point for exploration of the impressive Mayan ruins of Tikal.
Peten´s capital is a very small town; it was possible to walk the inner ring road in about 15 minutes and cross the island in under 5 minutes. However despite its lack of size, this town boasted a lot of character. Unlike the neighboring towns which are dirty and chaotic, dominated by commerce and the bustle of tourists and pick-pockets alike, Flores is a delightfully easy going town, a sedate maze of cobbled streets and traditional houses, built around a huge twin domed Baroque church and a central plaza. On the day of my arrival I did little other than pound the streets in search of a good limonada and a café with a view over the bay. I found both. Bliss!
The next day the group awoke at 4.30am and boarded the 5 o clock bus to Tikal. Tikal is
Sunset over the Lago de Peten Itza
This was the view I enjoyed shortly before stoping at a lakeside restaurant for more meat that you can shake a stick at probably the most impressive of all Mayan sites. Once the Capital of the Mayan world and home to over 100,000 , the site is dominated by 5 enormous limestone pyramids that rise to more than 60m above the rainforest floor. Its size, history and wealth of impressive architecture (much of which is still being excavated), make Tikal is a must see for all tourists traveling through Guatemala. However due to our tour guides links with the park officials (she lived nearby for 2 years) and a little cash subsidy, we were privileged to share the site with less than 20 other tourists for a blissful hour. On arrival our park guide directed us to the tallest temple, Temple 4, which we climbed to the top of and where we were treated to the story of Tikal´s Rise, Fall, Rise, and eventual collapse. As the story unfolded the morning cloud that initially shrouded the site lifted, the tropical wildlife (monkeys, parrots, tucans and much more) awoke and the city came to life and into view. It was a stunning site.
As we explored the ruins our guide explained the significance of the buildings and structures that we passed. The Mayans
Temples 1,2 and 3 emerge from the cloud forest at Tikal
This is the view that I was awarded with for climbing 150 steps to the top of Temple 4 were a big fan of Human sacrifice and many activities culminated in some sort of human sacrifice. This was a culture where the kings and rulers would gladly place their own blood and the lives of their sons and daughters on the chopping block. The king would for instance bleed his genitals to prevent drought! However my favourite gore story was one about a ritual ball game played to honour the Mayan gods. In this ball game, 2 teams of men from the city would offer contend to pass a ball through 2 hoops at the end of a rectangular playing field. Each hoop was just big enough for the ball to pass through, and the hoops were positioned on small stepped structures sat either end of the rectangular court. The game sounded easy enough, however there was catch. The players are believed to have been prohibited from using their hands, and the heel and elbow were used to move the ball. Ok I was thinking, this could be trickier than I though, but there was more. The winning team according to some historians were then ritually sacrificed, a price that the winners gladly paid. Hence, my friends, I have
Temple one and The Great Plaza viewed from the North Acropolis
This temple called the Jaguar Temple is the burial ground of one of Tikals greatest ruler, Hasaw Chan K´awil. It dates to 721 AD finally found a game where I would say the competing is more important than the winning. I wonder how long the games lasted?
Having spent several enjoyable hours at Tikal we returned to Flores where we took a boat ride across the lake to a small town that had earlier been home to our tour guide. Here we were treated to possibly the most cultural experience of the trip. A lesson on cooking a local delicacy called Tomales - a food made of corn, water, salt and an filling of black beans or meat in a tomato sauce, all wrapped in banana leaves and cooked over an open fire in this instance. The kitchen facilities were not the most sanitary. Pigs and chickens ran around our feet, and there were flys a plenty, but we powered on. And despite the jibes of “a man in the kitchen, ha ha ha” or “hombres en la cocina, ha ha ha” as the case was (Guatemalans still believe that women should cook and clean while men chill out in front of the TV it seems) I think I did a sterling job. The whole group did actually. Shame that I thought it
Guatemalas national tree, the Ceiba
Its not just the spiders hat are hairy in this country! tasted horrible. Out of politeness I forced down a little of the food and thanked our cookery teacher, even tipping her for the time she had spent helping me concoct this local delicacy. I then made a hasty exit desperate to fill my belly with what would call nice food.
After a night of clubbing to Ragatone and Shakira I boarded a chicken bus (so called because live chickens ride on these buses) to the quite, scenic resort of Lanquin near Coban in the Middle of the country. This journey was hazardous, as it took us through a town reputed to be a drug haven for Columbian drug traffickers, but more to the point this uncomfortable ride would last 10 hours with the only toilet stop coming after 8 hours! Could have been messy, but thankfully I had dehydrated my body enough the previous night to last the distance.
Tired and weary from my trip I arrived at the Backpackers stronghold of El Retiro on the banks of the Lanquin river. Having found my palm leaf thatched cabaña, and my bed which bizarrely was up a ladder in converted attic of sorts I headed down to the riverside
Cooking up a storm in my tour guides old village
I´m pictured here with the woman who taught us, who is still laughing at the man in the kitchen to make some new friends and take a dip in the refreshing cool river. About 5 minutes latter I was jumping into a Toyota pick-up with an inner ring in hand ready to enjoy a few lazy moments tubing down the river which actually possessed some force one rapids. This was just the tonic required to revive me.
Whilst this place was completely devoid of cultural experiences I soon found myself feeling at home in this place. The beer was super cheap and the barman from Farnborough had plenty of it! Toss in a few hammocks, good food and a good crowd this place soon became my favourite place visited yet. The next day, things got even better!
Rising early (a common practice on this trip) I headed towards the regions prime attraction, Semuc Champey, a shallow staircase of turquoise waters that flow down a natural limestone bridge in the land. Before visiting the pools though I had an added activity up my sleeve, caving through the Lanquin caves. This was the first time that I had been caving and if all caves are like this then I imagine that it wont be the last time. I walked
in candlelight, swam in icy cold water, dodged many sharp hidden rocks, climbed a waterfall, forced my body through a body sized crevasse and posed under a rock which had a striking resemblance to a large sombrero hat. Sadly the photos of this trip (all taken on a cheap waterproof camera without flash) did not come out.
Emerging from the cave, the group headed towards the pools of Semuc Champey pausing only to let fellow nutters jump off a 8 meter high bridge. Check the pictures!
Finally we arrived at out primary destination and it was an awesome sight. Our tour leader led us to the top of the pools, where the fast flowing River Cahabon plunges down into a dark cavern that cuts under the pools before spending several hours wallowing in the sun and frolicking in the pools. I also climbed the so called hour climb (it took 15 minutes) to the Mirador which awards climbers with an postcard perfect panoramic view over the whole site. Again check the pictures.
Coupled together with the wildlife: schools of fresh water fish, giant blue butterflies and big hairy spiders which I was now accustomed to seeing, this
day was too short in the end. The pools were so enticing that I would have like to spent another day here, especially as the backpacker crowd here was the best yet. I would recommend this place to everyone and anyone. We would leave early the next day to the volcanic Lake Atitlan.
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ball games
sounds like own goals would be the order of the day in mayan times!!the tourquoise waters in the photos are wonderful to look at --wished i was there . you sound like you're having a great time --glad you got your backpack--keep bloggging they really are wonderful to read