Strong Women Rule!

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In the culture of 'machisimo', women are taking control of their destiny. In Chile, they just elected the first woman President. It was with a twist of irony as her father had been killed by Pinochet in the CIA planned and funded 'coup' that overthrew their democratically elected goverment and replaced it with a cruel dictator.

In the tiny agricultural village of Santiago Zamora, which sits on the outskirts of Antigua, a group of 30 women took economic matters into thir own hands about 12 years ago. They formed an association called Ixoqui Ye Samej, which means Women Workers of Kaqchikel. The women are all weavers. true artisans. But they had to sell their work to a middle-man for only a few quetzals( the local currency) more than what the raw materials cost. The buyer would then sell it for a higher profit in the markets of Antiqua. It left them with no money to send their children to school or for any health services in their village.

Their plan was to try and bring the tourists to their village so tourists would buy directly from them. They made a huge decision. They would open their village and their homes to strangers in hopes that the tourists would buy some of their products. Keep in mind that these people are very shy and very private. So this was a momentous move on their part but one born out of desperation. They recognized that their lack of education was keeping them from any other job oportunities and unless their children learned to read and speak Spanish, then they were doomed to lives of ignorance and poverty.

And so it began. Today 16 women remain in the cooperative. The other women had to drop out because of 'machisimo'- their husbands wanted them to stay in the home.

Here is how it works. A local NGO ( non-govermental organization) sponsors tours of the village for about $8 ( all of this money goes to the women). First, you are greeted by 3 of the women while still in Anigua. They introduce themselves and thank you for taking the tour. A pick-up truck brings you to the village. This is not outfitted with bench seats or even metal poles to hold onto. You just get plunked in the back of the truck. After a 10 minute ride you enter narrow cobble stoned then dusty streets. The rest of the women welcome you to their demonstration area and showroom- a dirt floor space that is walled on 3 sides by their woven 'petate' mats. Then everyone walks about a mile down to the lagoon area.

The lagoon is very important as it is the source of the 'petate' which they use to make fans and mats. Several of the women spread out a piece of plastic on the ground for the tourists to sit on ( they sit on the ground). Many have babies slung over their backs. One of the women tell the sad story of the village. The men work in the farm all day. It is owned by one rich man. He demands one month of their labor a year. They sell their crops- corn, onions, carrots, coffee in the market in Antigua. There is much more to the story but it is too long to go into here. The story is told in Spanish and the NGO worker translates. Remember this is the narrator's second language. None of them even spoke Spanish till the women asked the government to provide them with teachers so they could learn it.

We all walk back through the town where they proudly show off the new school. They have been able to send their children to school because of the money they now make by selling their weaving. Next stop is a very rudimentary clinic. It is was built by a woman from Italy. She still funds a lot of the supplies. It is opened once a week when a doctor comes to the village. Some of the money the women makes funds this clinic.

Back at the showroom the demonstrations begin- how they set up a 'warping board'. backstrap weaving, grinding coffee, weaving fans and mats. Their hands and fingers so fast that it is hard to snap a picutre. Children from the age of 7 are responsible for cutting the petate. Children from ages 7-12 work weaving for 2 hours before school. We were invited into a kitchen where they demonstrated how to make tortillas over an open fire- trust me it is not as easy as it looks.

All the while the women and children were around but each busy doing some household chore. They then brought out the tortillas, some rice, a wonderful tomato sauce, chicken, and a pot of really freshly brewed coffee.

I was overwhelmed by their graciousness, their skills, their ability to do so many tasks. I may have a lot of book knowledge but these women could survive without all the creature comforts that I live with very day. Yet, they are realists and know their children will need more to make a living in the future.

There was no hard sell. The ladies modestly stood by their tables and we could pick and choose anything that cought our eye. Over and over throughout the presentation they thanked us for coming as just the money we paid for the tour would help them.

For your information the cost of helping a child go to school is about $15 for books. School is free but they need to buy their books. That is a pretty paltry sum of most of us. If you are interested in pledging some money you can write me on the 'comment' section and give me your e-mail and I will tell you how to do it.

Be a hero and send a kid to school.
Carolyn

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