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Published: March 14th 2010
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Top of Perquin
peak of perquin, the guerilla army´s headquarters and a heavily bombed area during the war So upon finishing our volunteer work in Estancia, Becky and I spent 2 ½ weeks travelling through the rest of El Salvador. And heres the scoop.
Contents 1.Perquin: couples get away in the mountains (with the other couple volunteers)
2. El Tunco: Beach culture El Salvador, with surfing.
3. Colonial Towns and lakes: Suchitoto, Lago de Coatepeque, Ataco, Ruta de las Flores
4. Juayua. Gastronomia Food Fair
5. Barra de Santiago:
6. La Despedida
1. Perquin: couples get away in the mountains (with the other couple volunteers) Our first stop was a joint trip to Perquin with the other 2 volunteers, also a couple. A quick recap on the situation: they were really cool but we all basically shared 1room. There was a wall between us but you could hear every sound, even tossing during the night. So, the thought was that we had created this wonderful friendship under really weird circumstances, and itd be nice to say goodbye to each other in a different place. Where we could really just be friends and not deal with the other aspect of 2young couples living together for the first time, with another couple.
So we went to Perquin,
Surfing 2
here i go. after this shot, becky couldnt find me as i held my own among st the many locals thrashing those waves the Guerilla base and stronghold during the Civil War. It was a small gorgeous town up high in the mountains. Though only 3-4 hours from where we lived, the climate was completely different. It had pine trees and got cold at night, quite nice. While there, we mostly just sat around hanging out enjoying cold drinks and delicious food (things we were unable to do together in Estancia).
We did a short hike and took a tour of a Civil War museum. The museum was probably one of the best museums we’ve seen here. Its made entirely of fotos and old war relics (bombs, guns, clothes, bags, etc) and the guides are all local war vets who volunteer. They do a surprisingly good job showing both sides, and it was just another reminder of how torn that region and country was during those 12 years.
We then said goodbye and becky and I contined on our own.
2. El Tunco: Beach culture El Salvador, with surfing. El Tunco is 1 of 2 places in El Salvador where we met other backpackers. It’s a surf town that has done the challenging task of supporting a local surf culture,
Milk Truck Lift
along Ruta de Las Flores, we hitched a ride in a milk truck. At the end, he gave us some ChocoLatinos, local chocolate milk. backpackers, and El Salvidorian tourists from the city. And it not only supports them all, but all 3 come together in a way I have not seen anywhere else. All groups are interacting, mixing, and sharing the beach and local spots. Its really quite nice. We spent a few days there to have some chill time and surf abit. We each took a lesson, and by the end of the trip, were both getting up pretty consistently (at least in the white water).
As mentioned, It also is the only place that many backpackers go in El Salvador. From that point on, the only other couple we met unt il getting to the other backpacker place was a retired couple from Memphis. And surprisingly, they were some of our favorite people met while travelling. Go figure.
3.Colonial Towns and Lakes: Suchitoto, Lago de Caotepeque, Ataco, Ruta de las Flores So from there we saw a bunch of traveler-empty places.
Suchitoto, a colonial town with a bohemian, artsy feel. A good bit of art galleries, live music, and some gorgeous views of a lake. We actually stumbled upon the nicest hotel ive ever stayed in, for $15
Suchit oto Church/fountain
Central Plaza of Suchitoto with a church and fount ain a night (the room, not a person). It was a gorgeous private house on the side of a mountain. And our double French Doors (maybe?)opened onto a balcony with a view. And it was there that we drank wine and hung out with some retired Memphisians.
Lago de Caotepeque,a crater lake and weekend getaway for the wealthy from San Salvador, had 1 hostel right on the lake. So we stayed in a shack built high over the water, and enjoyed it all to ourselves. There was fresh fish, good swimming, and good views. But again, only us.
4. Juayua. Gastronomia Food Fair Juayua was the first town we made it to with other travelers, and it was pretty interesting. We took a coffee plantation tour, saw some waterfalls, and ran into friends we met in El Tunco. But the highlight was La Gastronomia!. A food fair where restauraunts and private vendors take over the central sqauare and surrounding streets selling food. But not your regular street food, fancy gorgeous plates for reasonable prices. (about $5-7).
5.Barra de Santiago. And, at the end of our trip, we headed back to the beach, Barra de Santiago.
Gastronomico Juayua
the weekend festival where restaurants put up tents and sell delicious plates in the street. here 1 of the examples is on display. A beautiful sandy beach for miles and miles. The land was actually a peninsula between an estuary and the pacific. And we had a small beach-front hostel. Again a lone, which was perfect, we had the entire beach to ourselves. We´d cook breakfast and lunch, but for dinner we’d ‘go out’ to a shack at the mouth between the estuary and the pacific. Basically a point of the peninsula that was all sand. Someone there set up a thatched roof shack (literally just a roof) where they grilled and fried fresh fish caught each day. Besides being the best fish ive ever had, it was that beach and restauraunt that you always think about looking for. Gorgeous, raw, nobody, and a real feeling of smallness. And fresh fish from a shack on the beach that closes at sunset cuz theres no power out there isn’t too bad either.
6.La Despedida: So after a really really really wonderful 2+ weeks of travelling, we had to say goodbye to one another in the San Salvador airport. And it was really sad and a big bummer. But, we´re each where we need to be right now, and that’s pretty good too.
Suchitoto coffee shop
Enjoyin a cup at a small coffeeshop in the bohemian Suchitoto Beckys now back in the states, moving up to boston soon to try to find work. I went back to El tunco for 10 more days to do some more surfing. Its kind of a thing ive always wanted to learn, and el tunco was the perfect place. And me, well, Im going south-er. I fly to Argentina on March 9th, and ill be there until the beginning of June. I don’t know where im going or what im doing. But I think ill see some mountains, do some hiking, and work on my Spanish. El Salvador has been wonderful, and im really sorry to leave it. But theres more to see and more to do with this year. So, catch me if you can
Neal
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