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On the 14th headed out to Topes de Collantes for a 3-hour trek (about 6kms). Walked through green valleys and visited a cave with an underground river and rock pool. Water was freezing. Our destination was an isolated, century old hacienda where we camped under the veranda awning for the night. The house specialty was roasted suckling pig which was so delish. Normally I avoid the crackling but this was unlike any I've tasted before it was so crunchy. Good night sleep until the bloody cock started crowing at 5.00am.
Next day we travelled a bit in a Russian army truck, and then walked another 9kms to the next hacienda, which was not as nice or friendly as the previous one and very commercial. On the way we stopped at a coffee farm house. Andres our guide was great value making lewd sexual comments about everything and singing Frank Sinatra tunes. In afternoon did another 6kms walk to a beautiful waterfall and swam in a cool freshwater lagoon. Mini and I decided to sleep on the table tops that night, as we didn´t fancy sleeping with the wandering dogs, pigs and chickens.
A few people have been sick with
a nasty gastro thing with vomiting & diarrhea. Think it's from using the public toilets. Luckily we've been using this antibacterial gel which I got us. Mini has also developed a nasty itchy rash all over her face and body, and we're not sure what it is. Thought it might've been heat rash, but she appears to maybe be allergic to the rum. I´ve been drinking her share.
Got off the mountain on the 16th by another Russian army truck which killed my backside, and drove to Camaguey, which is pronounced ´come away´. I love this town, it´s mostly foot and bicycle traffic and everyone is really friendly. Had a nice fried pork sandwich lunch at a Cuban Peso place, which cost us a measly A$0.30. Also went into a Cuban Peso grocery shop to look at the range, which was pretty measly. That night went to a Casa de la Trova to listen to some Cuban jazz and danced with a couple of local guides. A great night watching the locals show how the salsa´s really done.
On the 17th we walked around and ran into some others at this cool bar called Él Cambio for a
morning mojito. Then joined them on their bicitaxi´s and went to the local Farmers Market and a real paladar in someone´s house with only 4 tables. Including the lunch for our drivers, it only cost 120 Cuban pesos or 5CUC each. We were really late and held up the bus for 45 minutes, OOPS!
On the roads there are heaps of propoganda signs talking about the success of the communist regime, and Vive La Revolucion. There were also signs immortalising 5 local heroes who have been imprisoned in the the USA for over 15 years for fighting against purported terrorist actions from Cuban exiles in Miami, purportedly without a fair trial.
On the 18th headed off to the Sierra Maestra Mountains where Fidel and Che had their revolutionary headquarters - La Comandancia de la Plata. It´s located in Granma Province which is the name of the yacht that they travelled on from Mexico in Dec 1956. Of the 82 revolutionaries that came, only 12 survived after they were ambushed by govt troops. They fled into the mountains and it was these men who masterminded the overthrowing of the Batista regime in the following 2 years.
We went
by another Russian army truck but standing up this time with the locals, which was an unreal experience. The road rose to 950m and was really steep with a 40 degree incline, so had to hold on really tight. Walked to the Medina family farmhouse, who provided the land for the revolutionaries´headquarters, helped them as guides, and also wrote revolutionary songs for Fidel. You are not allowed to take your cameras up to the site, some sort of ban so the govt can milk it for tourism later on. We were the only group up there which was special. On another note, it´s kind of surreal but nice being in the only country in the world where you are not surrounded by Yankees, or a Macca´s on every corner.
The campsite is made up of different buildings. There´s a museum with pictures and memorabilia of the 26th July Movement, Fidel´s quarters complete with a false entrance and secret escape hatches, and the bench he used to sit on. He must be a really tall man as my legs were dangling over the edge. There were also kitchens, sleeping quarters, guard posts, and a portable radio site. Fidel also had
Peso grocery store
No problems getting any beer. Anything else, forget about it. a group of 13 women fighters aged from 18-25 whom he rated as the best of his personal army. Not many tourists come this way, but I would rate it as a definite highlight of the trip.
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Fat Guy's Wife
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Kingdom Far Far Away
Yes, fabulous, fabulous but where're the Kid's Clubs? As you can see, more than one person has asked this so do note .... Also, do you take travel companions, hitchhikers etc.. before your 12 months out, you'll find plenty of people wanting to hitch a ride