Los Cubanos

---

The Cubans are engaging, generous people. Though we encountered some who work in the nascent tourist industry, mostly unofficially), the day jobs of people we met (teacher, lab technician, taxi driver, musician) pay a relative pittance monthly; approximately $360 Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUCs, tourist money); the equivalent in Monedas Nacionales (the currency the locals use to pay for goods and services) is $15 MN per month. Just to give you some perspective, on the barren shelves of one of the department stores I saw flip-flops for sale for $65 MN. Go ahead, do the math. In addition to their salaries, they receive a portion of foodstuffs for free each month. Despite this presumed lack, there's no crime to speak of, and good humor and hospitality abounds. I attribute this to Cubans' very limited exposure: there's no advertising, most Cubans are not allowed to leave the country, and most tourists stay in all-inclusive beach resorts that prohibit locals from entering. Buddha said "Desire is suffering". Cubans can't covet what they don't know exists...

It's a study in contradictions though... I did not see one unpedicured set of toenails the whole week. American money nor cards issued by American banks can be used anywhere; ANYWHERE, yet a bank teller was counting and wrapping stacks of US dollar bills as she answered our question: No, they would not exchange Jamaican money, but they would convert it to US Dollars, and then exchange it for Cuban Convertible Pesos AND charge a ten per cent tax for having to exchange US Dollars!
Yeah, you read that right.

Like all the guidebooks say, if you don't look particularly foreign, i.e., you don't have alabaster skin or blonde hair or dreadlocks, chances are you'll blend in to the Cuban melting pot; and not be targetted by swindlers or approached by people begging. Hey, you might even have a woman call out to you, like I did: "Ai, mi prima! Mi Prima!" before embarrassingly realizing her mistake. (I was not, in fact, her cousin; at least as far as I know.)

The swindling is low key, typically a CUC is retained when you receive change after making a purchase. It seems minimal and is therefore easily overlooked. Bear in mind though that minimal is relative: 1 CUC = 24 MN. Should you choose to rectify the miscount, chances are, in every case, you'll be met with a calculator to support the change dispersed, and an readily offerered, gracious apology when your suspicions bear out.

OR, the swindling is genial. You may find yourself swept up in conversation with a fast walking, fast talking man on the street who leads you into a building and before you know it, you've paid for the three drinks he ordered, giggling while he gives you a salsa lesson and paying for diapers for his baby--all on his lunch break! Or you may find yourself looking on with bemusement.

---