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Published: June 22nd 2010
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We’ve been away for five nights in a place called the Pacuare Reserve to volunteer with a project helping to protect turtles from poachers. The project looked like an adventure being in a jungle that is dubbed as a mini Amazon and also being on the Caribbean coast.
The journey there was the start of the adventure; getting a bus to a remote village called Matina, a strange pick up taxi journey through banana plantations, a 30 minute boat journey along jungle fringed canals to a tiny little dock hidden in the trees finally leading to a walk through the jungle to our camp. Remote is a slight understatement.
When we arrived we met the people who we were to be helping. Three research assistants, one long term volunteer and the coordinator, Alverno. We were told that there is a camp at either end of the 6km beach that is patrolled by the project. The other camp being bigger with more volunteers, we were told that we’d struck lucky being sent to the North end as it was the better of the two.
Having no electricity, come night time every thing is done by torch and candle light
(including the toilet stops which need to be checked for some of the 17 poisonous snakes that could be lurking). On the first night the others thought it would be fun to recount the horror stories of previous volunteers involving some of the jungle monsters. Some of which involved a man being eaten by the big crock that lives in the nearby water and a girl having a snake fall on her head while she was sleeping. Hmmm.
Off to bed we went.
Luckily we woke the next morning.
So the days went pretty much like this…. Breakfast at 9, chill out, lunch at 1pm, chill out, around 3 we’d either clear large wood from the beach (obstructions can seriously hinder a turtles chances of making it to the sea) or excavate the nests that haven’t hatched (these are monitored from the day they were laid and through the 60 day incubation period) or triangulating and marking the nest that are about to hatch (these are marked as close to the hatching time as possible so that the poachers don’t take them). Dinner was at 6pm and then the patrols would take place at night. These were
3 hr patrols covering half of the beach, if you didn’t see a turtle you would make this journey around twice (about 6 miles). Patrols would leave at either 9pm, 12am or 5am come rain or moonlight.
The patrols were really quite cool. You’d walk along seeing scurrying crabs, blips of yellow light from the luminescence in the sand and trying not to trip over the large trunks or coconuts littering the beach. All of this was done without a torch listening to the sounds of the jungle. Luckily the haunting sounds of the howler monkeys were during the day - it could’ve made for a scary movie otherwise.
Once back to the camp you’d use your torch to not just light the way, but to scare off the snakes and to make sure you didn’t kick any of the very large toads that would hop in your way.
During the first and last day we were lucky enough to see a nest of hatchlings emerging from the sand and make their way to the sea. It was something out of a nature program, an amazing experience seeing these tiny little creatures fight their way out of
The canals
It was a 30 minute boat journey there - the best part of the journey. the nest and instinctively head towards the sea (a mountain of a trek for something so small (around 3-4”). We’d help by keeping birds of prey and crabs from having a munch on the little mites. A definite highlight to the trip.
Due to some toe problems and a nasty bout of flu, I didn’t make it out on the last night patrol and consequently didn’t see any of the huge leatherbacks come on land to lay their eggs. Steve was lucky however and on the last night saw two of these beasts. I’m sure it must have been a wonderful experience. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to use flash or white lights on the beach (a signal for help) so he didn’t manage to get any photos.
The nature aspect of the project was amazing and the turtles were a massive highlight. The only problem being the other people on the project. Although one on one they were nice, as a group they were unfriendly. They made us feel quite alone, not making an effort especially during meal times. Normally this wouldn't worry us, but being in the middle of a jungle with only snakes and turtles to
befriend it became a bit too trying which is why we cut our stay short by two days. Kate was the only person who made an effort to include us in her adventures in the jungle.
Yet another example of people from other countries being rubbish at welcoming short term visitors and yet again locals proving to be the most open and friendly despite the language barrier.
One afternoon I was giving Steve a hair cut and one of the guards asked for me to do the same for him (even after it being explained that I am no hairdresser and that he is taking his hair in his own hands). In return he took Steve and I to his ‘village’ up the coast. This was such a lovely experience, seeing first hand how ‘real’ Costa Ricans live. Again, another highlight of the trip.
We made it back to San Jose yesterday feeling exhausted but pleased to be back in the land of the living. Luckily it was last night that Steve mentioned that they had found a snake in one of the bedrooms on our second night there. We could’ve been coming back a little earlier
if I’d known that at the time!
Lotssssssssssssss of love
SSSsssssss & SSSsssssss
XxxxxxX
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M&D
non-member comment
Well what an experience!! Amazing photos and video and you both look lovely - nice hair cut Steve.... You were really out in the middle of the jungle there weren't you. The paintings on the loo and shower looked a bit out of place!! I bet Steve is happier tonight although even I found myself sitting on the edge of my seat!! We hope you are both feeling better - take it easy for a few days. lots of love xxxxx