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Published: June 16th 2008
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Eileen on the Zip Line
Whizzing through the Forest Canopy Nothing surprises us anymore about local bus journeys, especially the amount of people that a driver can cram on. With that in mind, it probably wasn´t our best decision to travel to La Fortuna on a Saturday afternoon. Started off fine on our four and a half hour jaunt from San Jose Bus Station.
Front seat on a half full coach, not for long!! Before we left the city limits it was full to the gunnels, no air conditioning and surrounded with passengers standing. Each time you thought it just wasn´t possible to stuff any more locals on board, the driver stops and lets on another four or five!!! Eileen ended up with a four year old girl on her knee and a three year old standing in front of her amongst all our bags.
At every town when lots got off, more squeezed on!!! I reckon about three hundred people must´ve boarded in total.
On our arrival at La Fortuna we made our way to Gringo Petes, yes I know, it doesn¨t sound like the Radisson!!! but at 6 pounds a night, it was worth a look. When we arrived pack heavy
Volcan Arenal
At night it is possible to witness the Lava Flow. at the original Gringos Hostel they had only one dingy double room left but we knew about a second facility, just recently opened.
Pete from Washington State took us in his pick up to Gringo Petes Too.
A clean basic room with the best view in town, we faced straight on to Volcan Arenal, one of the ten most active volcanos in the world, Superb!!!!
This famous volcano is the main draw for this part of the world, it rumbles and spews out molten lava rocks daily.
Finally, it feels likes the Costa Rica experience we´ve been looking forward to has begun, visiting active volcanos, tropical rainforests, waterfalls, cloud forests, and seeing some of this countrys abundant wildlife.
Already we´ve seen a large Iguana and a lizard which ran across the street in front of us on its hind legs.
My toe is better as well!! At last!!!!
Our first trip took us to the Eco Centro Danaus, where a young schoolboy guide named Elias took us on very informative tour of the grounds. We were fortunate enough to see amongst other things, 3 Toed Sloths, Caimans, Poisonous Blue Jeans Frogs, bright Green Lizards, Humming
Poisonous Blue Jeans Dart Frog
At last! A Rangers supporting frog Birds, and the rare Morphos Butterfly. At 5 pounds each, we would really recommend this centre as a great place to view some of the amazing wildlife in Costa Rica.
Next up, a guided hike in a group of ten people around the foot of the volcano. First thing we heard at the start of the trek was the call of Howler Monkeys across the forest canopy. We also got to see an Agouti and some Toucans. Later in the forest, we were lucky enough to see a family of Howlers in the trees above. As it was getting dark we drove to a viewpoint on the far side of the volcano to SEE LAVA, as all the posters proclaim. True to form, it started to pour as we arrived, nonetheless, it was still great standing in the rain witnessing the burning lava flowing from the summit.
Afterwards it was back to Gringo Petes Too for our regular evening routine. Experiencing the nightly thunder and lightning show from our balcony, downing a few Imperial Beers, and being entertained by the staff. Four young girls always listening to Enrique Iglelias
and having a carry on.
On our last day we took a taxi to the 70 metre high Catarata Waterfall, a bumpy road alright, one which we walked on the way back. This was a much better journey, time to take in the countryside.
The entrance is above the waterfall so a steep descent is required. The hike back up was supposed to be a killer, it wasn´t so bad. The Cataratas was impressive, we ended up spending all day at the foot. It was quite busy at first but later most people left. Oh yes!! the water was freezing!!!
The best way to travel to our next destination was by Jeep Boat Jeep, this 3 hour journey to Monteverde costs 18 US$ and saves 6 hours on the normal road route.
Actually it turned out more of a van boat van but it was OK. The boat section was good on Lake Arenal, it reminded us of Loch Lomond apart from the active volcano behind us. The last bit to our hostel was incredibly bumpy, there are no paved roads to this town in the cloud forest, only hard packed gravel tracks full of potholes.
As usual, we didn´t fancy our pre booked accommodation in the Pension Santa Elena. This place has rave reviews so it was incredibly busy. The staff are first class but not impressed with our dingy room at the rear or the facilities. worst of all, it was so noisy. Next day we moved to Cabinas Eddy, nicer and cheaper at 10 pounds per night.
Monteverde and Santa Elena have a special location in the mountains on the Continental Divide between the Pacific and the Atlantic. Warm air from the Carribbean cools and condenses forming clouds in the forest.
These conditions have created a unique Eco Environment with fantastic fauna and flora.
It´s really a Twitchers delight in Costa Rica, we´ve seen so many new types of birds like Tanagers, Violet Sabre Wing Humming Birds, Yellow Crowned Euphonia, Boat Billed Herons, Keel Billed Toucans (I thought a guide called them Kill Bill because they had yellow beaks) Parrots, Turkey Vultures and tons more. I´ll be able to tick them all off in the Bill Oddie Book Of Birds. Although we haven´t managed to see the star of the show,
La Fortuna Main Street
Volcana emitting Steam and Hot Gases A Quetzal, the large brightly coloured bird with a ribbon like tail.
We went on a 2 hour walk through the Monteverde rainforest, never seen anything special but it was fabulous walking amongst the dense vegetation and giant trees covered with mosses and vines.
Afterwards we planned to go for another one hour walk, except, not for the first time, or certainly not the last, it started to pour. We took shelter in the Humming Bird Cafe watching them feed on sugared water on the decking area. Amazing little creatures, when they fly too close you can hear the humming in your ears.
It rains every day here!!!!!
In the morning it is sunny and hot, then the cloud moves in early afternoon like a scene from John Carpenters, "The Fog" followed by the inevitable downpour and roars of thunder, not only that it starts to get cold and I don´t have anything with long sleeves.
Visited the local Orchid Garden and the "Serpentaria" to see deadly snakes, hope we don´t come across any in the wild, especially the Fer De Lance, or Boa Constrictor.
Was surprised at the size and variety
Humming Bird
First attempt at photographing one. of Orchids, as small as 2mm and several trees in the Cloud Forest have more than 40 different species growing on them.
Costa Rica is also famous for Zip Line Canopy Tours, had to give it a go!!
Many companies in town offer tours, we opted for Selvatura at 20 pounds each. It consists of a series of platforms high in the forest canopy connected by steel cables. You wear a harness, which clips on to the cable then you Zipline between them. This one also has a tarzan swing which Eileen was looking forward to.
It was great fun!! but just as we reached the swing, the heavens opened and were absolutely drenched. Worse still, lightning flashes started above so after the swing we abandoned ship and hurried back to reception.
Only missed the last two cables, wasn´t worth the chance of being toasted on a steel cable.
On thing about these remote small towns in the mountains, they are incredibly noisy. It starts before 6 in the morning, constant racket from Dirt Motorbikes, Quads, Trucks, Buses, even Tuk Tuks, climbing hills with revving engines.
Dae Yer
Crocodile or Caiman
Big or Small, Stay or Scarper Heid In!!.
Changed plans yet again, this time we are off to the beach at Playa Tamarindo on the Pacific Coast, one of the most popular resorts for American tourists. Seemed like a hassle travelling by public buses so we paid extra for a private shuttle straight there.
Ended up at the Mamiri Hotel in a nice room for 15 pounds per night. Tamarindo came as a bit of a surprise, no paved roads, only dusty tracks, and building work everywhere. Luckily the beach and the wildlife made up for it, seen a crocodile in a small pond at the back of the beach.
We´re convinced a wee workman with a power tool is following us everywhere we go in the world. Without fail it starts up whenever we fancy a bit of peace and quiet. He has more than one, sometimes a drill, other times a sander, hammer or strimmer.
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carol
non-member comment
hot stuff!!!!
hey you two, i take it you'r still having a ball?? the amount of wildlife you've seen must be great - things you would only see on the tv back home! the volcano looks amazing-so alive!!!!!!! the rope slide or "death slide" looks good but you know me i'm a bit of a coward so i don't know if i would have the guts for it. i take it when you get back there'll be no complaints about "stagecoach"?? looking forward to the next instalment, take care + be safe lol, carol+david