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Published: January 3rd 2006
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Throwing caution to the wind, we decided to cross the border into Belize and make it into Orange Walk in one go. After arriving in Chetumal, on the Mexican side of the border, trying to get a connecting bus to Belize was like an episode of "Its's a Knockout" but the obstacles weren't wearing inflaitable suits making them much harder to spot. Our first opponent was a sketchy information woman who muttered something about a bus leaving from the market place. The second opponent came in the form of a smooth talking money changer who managed to rip off a few people but we thankfully managed to side step him. For opponent 3, see opponent 2 but now in the guise of a shady bus conductor, who was willing to take ticket money from gringos without actually producing any ticket, then hopping off the bus! We all thought we had been swizzed when another guy came around collecting money but learned to our relief that he was legit, although his random ticket prices did tend to fluctuate.
If you ever need proof that friendly immigration officials exist, look no further than Belize. After the formalities, the official turned tourist guide telling
us all the top spots in Belize.
We eventually got into Orange Walk after dark, having befriended a Kiwi couple on the bus. Our accomodation, with beer soaked sheets and chewing gum on the walls was to set the scene for a surreal couple of days. The four of us were enjoying a couple of beers in front of our hotel when a few of the friendly local kids (with a penchant for mini dynamite!) came over for a chat and to fill us in on the town and the local legends. Our favourite being the story of "One eyed Jack" the resident crocodile who terrorizes the kids and has a tree growing on his back. The half a cow found later near our hotel was apparently his handy work.
We took a walk into what looked like a ghost town, forgetting it was Boxing Day.To our joy we discovered that the only two establishments open were a hotdog stand and a seedy bar....what more could you ask for? The bar had to be seen to be believed. Rather large scantily clad women were draped over men offering certain services. The local drunks were slumped over the bar until
falling off their stools one by one, before being carried out feet first. The was no humming and harring over what to drink here....the bar only served beer. The toilets consisted of an overflowing trough for the boys and equally for the girls including a rusty coil of wire protruding out of the murky water that left us mistified. The locals quickly accepted us and we ended up having the most entertaining night so far. We rolled back in the early hours worse for wear having been let in on the local secret that the stout is twice the alcohol percentage for the same price.
The people of Orange Walk were very friendly and accepting of foreigners, as it is a very multi-cultural community. Perhaps the weirdest of which are the Mennonite community who freaked us out when we saw them. They can probably be most likened to the "Amish", rejecting modern technology and all wearing the same costume, that would look out of place on "Little house on the Prarie". This only added to the wild west feel of the town which is basically a wide dusty road lined with wooden shops either side.
The bus to Belize City
was packed to the rafters. Both of us had our backpacks on our knees and the poor grandma in front of us had a 15 old lad on hers. We headed straight to the marine terminal in Belize City getting a water taxi to Caye Caulker, a small island only 45 mins away with a distinct Carribean flavour. There's a definite "no problem, go slow" vibe about the place. Shoes are largely unnecessary here as the streets, bars and shops have mainly sand floors. Karen has finally full filed a life long ambition to stay in a wooden beach hut on stilts.... and purple too! It's everything idilic, except for the offensive sulfur odour emanating from the taps. Showers lasted for as long as you could hold your breath with both of us jumping out and asking " does my skin smell?"
Most days were spent lazing around in the sun, swimming or snorkelling with the highlight being a day trip out to the reefs. First stop was Shark Ray Alley which certainly lived up to it's name.Karen got to hold and pet a 6ft nurse shark and the whole area was teeming with giant stingrays. It turned out the
only thing to fear in the water was getting kicked in the head by the two Japanese in our group that couldn't swim. Next stop was Hol Chan Marine Park that had plenty of brightly coloured fish and an impressive green moray eel that Mark almost got too close to. We docked in San Pedro for luch on Ambergris Caye. At this point Karen thinks it important that you know that Madonna's song "La Isla Bonita" was written about this island. On the return leg we stopped at Coral Gardens where we had an amazing experience being encompassed by a massive school of bright blue fish and saw a couple of reef sharks.
The day was fantastic and left us exhausted but we still had New Year celebrations ahead. We spent the majority of the night in one of the popular beach bars on the island. It was a great party atmosphere to see in the New Year and we hope you all had a happy one. We are now back in Belize city with a view of heading west towards Guatemala.
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Simon Gilboy
non-member comment
My wife is leaving me to join you
Karen Thanks a bunch. Nicky has read your bloody journal, and has buggered off to Mexico with a French toy boy. What's wrong with watching Neighbours every day and having fish and chips on Friday?