Russ & Mo- Ambergris & Caulker Cayes

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Hello Friends!

I'm writing to you personally instead of through the blog because I am now
apart from my friend, Nicole, and I don't remember the password to get in.

The last I wrote we were heading to Livingston, Guatemala, a funky little
beachside community that is comprised of Mayas, Garifunas (the descendents
of African slaves), and Indians.

The first thing we did was consult our Lonely Planet guide book and set out
to find a place to stay. This was the first time that we encountered some
problems. Our first and second choices were closed due to repairs, and our
3rd choice was frightening. Mind you we were climbing steep hills fully
loaded with backpacks on our front and back sides in the sweltering noon
time heat. By the time we found a place to stay in the Hotel Garifuna we
were puddles of sweat.

The book again recommended a place to eat that was run by a Mexican woman
who had married an Indian and had spent several years there learning how to
cook. The result was a burrito that had curry rice in it. I must say, it
was not a great combination, but she was a gregarious woman and we had a
great ocean view as well. Speaking of the ocean, this is NOT a place to
swim...pigs run up and down the beach, and there are mounds of garbage
everywhere.

Livingston, while interesting, is not a place where I feel compelled to
return...

The next day we took a ferry to Punta Gorda, Belize. We were met by
Celiano, a Mayopan Maya who works on the co-op where Nicole's family's
time-share is located. After spending some time in town changing money and
buying supplies, we headed about 5 miles inland to the Huxacil Ha
Resort(which means living waters). It felt like we were out in the middle
of the jungle...very remote. What made the place a little slice of heaven
was the fact that it had air conditioning!!! The place was hot and humid,
so this was a God-send. Mayan families live in Huxacil Ha and contribute to
the community's well-being.

After a day spent reading, watching movies, and doing our nails, Nicole and
I set out to make dinner for ourselves and for her sister and her sister's
friend who joined us that evening. I couldn't help but laugh at the size of
their suitcases, as well as the "essentials" they brought along (like an
empty suitcase for souvenirs and industrial sized bottles of shampoo). It
turns out the peppers we added to the spaghetti sauce were habaneros...we
sweat through the meal and my fingers were still burning 2 days later from
cutting the peppers.

At 6 A.M. I boarded the bus alone for Belize City. The day before I had
purchased my ticket that came with an "assigned" seat. Nothing could have
been further from the truth. When the bus came it was filled to the gills
with people standing in the aisles. I thought, "Okay, Mo. You can do this.
A seat will become available soon." 3 hours later I was still standing
and I was tightly packed in with people in front and behind me. I started
to get nauseated and then things went black. I fainted on top of a guy, and
when I came to I was in his seat with people fanning me and asking if I was
okay. 10 minutes later we came into a stop and I got off to get some air.
There were still no seats, but the wonderful driver and another employee
made sure that I got to sit on the stairs up front where I could get air
and not be sandwiched between strangers.

After 5 and a half VERY long hours we finally arrived in Belize City. I
joined a traveler from Seattle on a taxi ride over to the ferry station
where I was to meet up with Russ at noon. Noon came and went (along with
the ferry), so I assumed Russ must have met up with some difficulties en
route from Tikal, Guatemala. at around 1 P.M. he showed up and I was sooooo
happy to see him! We took the 1:30 P.M. ferry over to Caye Caulker. It
turns out this weekend is Lobsterfest, their annual party complete with
food, drink, music, and Lobster Queens! There were very few rooms
available, so we ended up staying in a $50 dollar per night hotel. This was
quite a shock, given that the night before Russ stayed in a place in Flores
for $4 per night... The room did, however, have A/C, so we both got a good
night's sleep for the first time in many nights.

This place is incredibly beautiful and laid-back. The people are friendly
and everyone knows everyone else here (population 1500). While Russ went
diving this morning at a sight called Hol Chan, I moved our things about 4
hotels down to a place called Ianacio's Beach Cabins where we have a little
purple shack on stilts right on the beach for $20 per night. I went to the
local Catholic church for service (of course Mom is happy to hear that) and
explored the caye.

This is Russ now. Spent the day away from Mo. Dove with nurse sharks, green
turtles, moray eels and a bunch of great guys(why don't hot chicks in skimpy
bikini's dive? Could it be the overweight old perverts such as myself taking
up the whole boat?). Inquiring minds (mine) would truly like to know. Going
to dive the BIG BLUE HOLE tomorrow. It is supposed to be something special.
Divers have to pay 40US just for the park entrance fee.

Mo is getting big. For the first time in 18 years, my old lady's gotta
pooch. The 4.5 inch long androgenous creature growing inside is definitely
showing off now.

Okay, this is Mo again. Yes, the little one (and me) is getting big. We
have an appointment on July 26 to find out the gender.

Will close for now. I may be back to write tomorrow in order to escape the
heat and to pass the time. Russ leaves at 6 A.M. and doesn't return until 3
P.M., so I'll have to do something to keep busy.

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