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Published: February 16th 2011
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In our last letter we said that we would write next about George Town next… but we aren’t. I don’t have enough pictures yet from “this sweet place” as Eileen Vincent-Barwood calls this part of Exuma in her book. We spent a week in George Town catching up with old friends, Doug & Sharon on About Time, formerly Dream Catcher II, Skip & Cherylle on the Eleanor M, Toby and George of Puff, Dave & Bev of Cloverleaf and many others enjoying the special pleasures of George Town before heading out to explore Long Island. Since we will be heading back in a week or so we will write about George Town THEN.
It was a motor-sailing day to come the 37 NM from the anchorage in Elizabeth Harbor to Thompson Bay. It was a hot clear day and the water, always the draw, was the color of a well-maintained swimming pool. We were ready to jump over board when the anchor was down. We keep fresh water in the sun shower so after the swim we had a HOT fresh shower and were ready to relax.
Our first morning in the anchorage—where there are now close to
50 boats instead of the 3-4 we have been accustomed to in years past—we were surprised to hear there is a VHF radio net. There was an announcement that Trifina was having a special dinner for cruisers and we wasted NO time in signing up as we have had Trifina’s wonderful food before. We were about 30 cruisers and there were all the Bahamian favorites: baked mac & Cheese, cole slaw, peas & rice, “fry” chicken, “crack” conch—and a SPECIAL treat cracked crawfish (also called spiny lobster). It was fabulous and we were glad to be back in Long Island!!
A development called Long Island Breeze has been built since our last visit and they run the morning VHF net. They offer lots of other services to cruisers including a nice floating dinghy dock, plus WiFi, laundry and showers (each for a small fee). It is centrally located, next to the mailboat dock and nearly across the street from Hardings Supply, one of the two principal groceries in Salt Pond. We dinghied in and logged on to the Internet to catch up on e-mail that can’t be sent to our ham radio system and other business that is
done by computer. We had a great lunch with long time friends, Mike and Dawn of Anahata, formerly Tonica who have a home on Thompson Bay and George and Julie of Seaquel who were anchored in the harbor with us.
The next day we dinghied over to Mike and Dawn’s house, tying up right on their beach. They have stunning 360 degree views of the water in a lovely airey home that they have already personalized with shells and sea glass. We sipped coffee and caught up on the news, and poured over pictures of their son Elijah’s wedding. They have a pick-up truck AND a 4-wheel drive car and it was in the latter that we headed out across the bush to the Atlantic shore to do some beach combing. Along the way we stopped in Simms where we visited in 1994. Her Majasty’s Prison is now pink instead of yellow, and its sign is hard to read. The telephone office seems new to me, a nice additions.
The drive to the Atlantic side was bumpy and we were glad the car has 4-wheel drive. Toward the end you need to walk and poisonwood was pointed out
Anchorage in Thompson Bay
View from Mike and Dawn's house towards the anchorage so we could avoid contact. It gives blusters similar to poison ivy! We came through unscathed and the last part of the trail was through enormous sea grape stands. The Atlantic lay before us, breathtaking for its beauty and awfulness. The difference between a Long Island beach and the ocean side of Stocking Island near George Town is striking. Ocean side is the cleanest and most beautiful beach we have ever seen. There ARE shells there and you can find the occasional sea bean, but cruisers and residents work to keep the flotsam under control. In Long Island there are TONS of sea trash plied high and in waves deposited by each tide as it recedes. While not inviting for a swim, the “trash” beaches offer endless discoveries of water borne treasure. Shells, sea glass, beans, buckets and other useful items can be found if you are patient and look. We have had three beach walks so far and are not disappointed!
Since George and Julie of Seaquel were in Thompson Bay for only a few days and we got together with Dawn and Mike to drive to the southern tip of the island. Along the way you drive
Indian Hole Point
View towards the west from Mike and Dawn's house. by the old Diamond salt pans which are now closed. The area is called “Hard Bargain” and I was wondering who it was that drove that one, and if it was for the salt works. No bargains in site today. As you near the southern tip of Long Island the road ends at Gordons, where there is a stop sign, even though there is no more road to drive on in front of you! We stopped for a beach walk—on a lovely CLEAN beach!
The center of Long Island has a number of large salt or brackish lakes. One of these, Great Lake, has some resident flamingos. We were able to look at these magnificent birds through binoculars, but could not get close enough for good pictures. They get their brilliant pink color from the shrimp and krill they eat so if you see a pale flamingo they are not getting enough red shrimp to eat!
On our way back to Thompson Bay we stopped at Forest #2 restaurant for some lunch. Julie chose the fried chicken (called “fry chicken” in the Bahamas) and the rest of us got the ribs. Wonderful. We sat out under a palm-thatched
Her Majesty's Prison
In Simms, this "prison" was yellow when last we saw it in 1994. Now it is pink and the sign hgas faded. roof and quickly noted that it was beautifully made. Dudley the owner came out to chat and said he had decided to use the traditional palm thatching and it was all done by hand. It will last many years… unless there is a hurricane.
We are having a nice time in Long Island and will stay a few more days. Snorkeling, visiting the blue hole, and more catching up with boater friends are on the agenda…
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Dawn
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Long Island
Beautiful place. Wish I was there....oh, I AM!! Wonderful to have YOU here!