Delhi! The beating heart of India and home to 13,000,000. All of India's aspirations and ambitions, hopes and hopelessness, poverty, progress and pollution and any other combination of contrasts swamp every millimeter of Delhi's 1483 square km. There was nothing 'new' inside or outside New Delhi train station. The deafening cacophony, irrepressible masses and pungent odors were disorienting. Luckily for us, Paharganj, the budget accommodations area of town, was within walking distance. On the way, we chanced upon a barbershop and Vibert, with great trepidation, plunked himself down in the well-worn barber's chair and tried to describe his preferred cut. Raj, the barber, attacked the disorganized mop atop Vibert's head with unexpected skill and dexterity and twenty minutes later, Vibert emerged with a somewhat shorter, less disorganized mop. Thanking Raj ever so kindly,
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