Page 7 of saritrace Travel Blog Posts


Asia December 28th 2010

The old man plodded along the long narrow road. His shoulders were stooped. His head down. His woolly hat jammed tightly over his ears as if pulled on in a fit of pique. Lopsong, our guide/driver, pulled over and spoke to him. Suddenly he was climbing into the car and sitting next to me on the back seat. His brown cordoroy trousers were threadbare; his olive green jacket stained with white powder and black and fraying at the cuffs. Lines around his eyes and mouth etched deep gullies into his face and whiskers dotted his chin. He smelled of tobacco and old millk and looked as if he had nothing in the world. Then Lopsong announced, 'we're going to drink tea at his house'. A large gateway set into a high wall loomed before us. The ... read more
The Man Who Invited Us In.

Asia December 28th 2010

Yunnan Province. Three mountain ranges emerge out of eastern Tibet into what is now northen Yunnan in China - known as the area of the three rivers, for these mountain ranges hem in the Yangtze, the Salween, and the Mekong; or as it's called here, the Lancang Jiang - the Turbulent River. As the name suggests the Mekong, here in it's infancy rumbles and roars through gorges and canyons, and to us at least, is largely inaccessible. We content ourselves with getting a feel for the river, getting to know something of it's character in the cool high conditions before joining the Mekong in Jinghong and making our way down it's waters into Laos. A Little Bit of Tibet .... Songzanlin Temple. Ganden Samtsanling (as the Tibetans call Songzanlin) was once one of the great monasteries ... read more
A New Monastery Climbs The Hillside.
Sunshine Yellow and Heavenly Blue.
Peek-a-boo!

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok December 7th 2010

The Mekong is one of Asia's longest and most storied rivers; from it's beginning on the Tibetan Plateau it winds it's way 3,000 miles through China, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam to it's mouth at the South China Sea. We've encountered the Mekong on previous trips to South East Asia but these have been fleeting glances, mere moments in time. The mystery of the river enthralled us and the idea was born - to travel along it's length, to move through South East Asia as a whole and to see what - if anything - binds the region together. We want to experience the old and the new Asia, revisit past favourites and discover some new ones. The Mekong region has it all. Bangkok with it's skytrain and modern shopping malls. Luang Prabang with it's timeless temples ... read more

Africa » South Africa » Mpumalanga » Kruger National Park November 22nd 2010

A photo blog of our three Kruger trips. ... read more
Beauty in the bush.
Black and White.
Warthog battle it out.

Africa » South Africa » Mpumalanga » Kruger National Park November 22nd 2010

River Walk from Olifants Rest Camp with Wuzy and Dennis. I revelled in the prospect of a lie-in until 06.00. The river walk was short - only an hour and a half, and didn't start until 09.00. I wasn't expecting much, but a walk in the bush is always an experience and it would be good to get close to the river. Dennis was an earnest chap, he had an intensity about him, a quiet passion. He frightened me rather with his pre-walk briefing, telling us we were heading into the terrain of four of Africa's most dangerous animals - hippo, elephant, crocodile and buffalo - all of which were territorial. 'If anything happens follow our instruction without question - keep looking around you - anything could be in the long grass and Wuzy and I ... read more
Mmmm...lekker!
Waterhole.
Croc in a river of chocolate!

Africa » South Africa » Mpumalanga » Kruger National Park November 22nd 2010

'Ask in Paris, Berlin, or New York what the number one trail in Kruger is, and they'll all tell you - Sweni. We are the best. We are the A-Team'. Lourens and Nthambelenin ('call me Ndou - it's easier') our rangers, introduced themselves to us thus around the campfire. 'You Europeans are lost. We are going to bring you back to nature'. Explaining the morning routine, Lourens said 'there are no alarm clocks here - don't worry you'll be woken up - early'. Indeed, around 04.30 Ndou wisphered a soft good morning outside our A-frame hut, and I heard the sound of warm water being poured into the enamel basin on the porch. By flashlight I washed my face and tried to wake myself up. After a quick cup of tea (a huge kettle of water ... read more
Lourens and Ndou - our trusted rangers.
James and his food trolley.
Our home for three nights...

Asia May 6th 2010

"In any town in India the European Club is the spiritual citadel, the real seat of the British power, the Nirvana for which native officials and millionaires pine in vain." George Orwell, Burmese Days, 1935. "Any member shooting a pig be expelled the Club". Rule Eleven, Nuggur and Deccan Tent Club. Dalhousie has a distinctly English feel; leafy green lanes and old colonial architecture left behind by the 'Britishers' - with a little imaginatiion it's easy to see what life must have once have been like in the old hill station. The Club was the heart of any British station so I headed to the Dalhousie Club, established in 1895 and still occupying it's place at the center of the bazaar. I expected it to be shuttered and boarded. The curator at the library could tell ... read more
Interior.
The bar.

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Srinagar April 24th 2010

Kashmir gets a bad press. A bone of contention between India and Pakistan since partition; Bill Clinton called it the most dangerous place on earth. The reality is somewhat different. The way of life on Dal Lake seems to be one that has remained unchanged for centuries, beautiful and serene; life on the lake encourages a state of lethargic bliss. Far from feeling under threat, we felt cosseted, comfortable and completely safe. Visiting Srinigar without staying on a houseboat would be like going to Agra without seeing the Taj Mahal. Ayub, owner of the Snow Goose bumped into us as we stepped out of the sumo at the bazaar. We agreed to take a look at his floating villa, and from the moment we saw it we were lost. We stepped into the living room via ... read more
Shakiras.
Hard Work.
Still Working.

Asia » India » Punjab » Amritsar April 10th 2010

The Golden Temple requires few words of description - it's a special place. Serene and spiritual without being serious and dull. ... read more
The Golden Temple.
The Golden Temple.
Sikhs.

Asia March 29th 2010

Despite it's British origins (the design is based on the old Morris Oxford), the Ambassador is considered to be the definitive Indian car, the car of diplomats and tourists, and is called "The King of the Indian Roads". In production since 1958, it's graceful curves recall the elegance of bygone days. Roomy, comfortable, good suspension - essential for the potholed, almost crater-ridden Indian roads - for me this was the only option when choosing a car to tour India. In India car and driver form a package, and with our Ambassador we got Raj. I'd heard stories from other travellers about their driver woes. Drivers who insist on taking you where they want to go, who have no experience, who get lost, cannot read maps, and cannot speak reasonable English. I had doubts, but we were ... read more
Raj, the papaya king!
The M1 it is not!




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