On our last day, we had the chance to see Islamic Cairo. We started at the Ibn Tulun mosque, the oldest mosque in Cairo. It really shows how the mosque was at once a religious building, a fortress, and a school, even sometimes a hospital. It is not the largest or grandest mosque I have ever seen, but it has an old majesty and a fascinating history. Its minaret spirals around the outside with stairs, inspired by the lighthouse of Alexandria. There is a similar mosque in Samarra, but that was actually inspired by this mosque. Who knew? Our tour leader considered Ibn Tulun to be one of the most important leaders in Egypt. For example, Napoleon's troups occupied it and used it as a barracks. At a later time, it was so decrepit that it
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