Crossing the border from Ecuador into Peru, it may seem the barren landscape which suddenly engulfs everything around you is lifeless until the mounds of litter that pave the roads indicate there must have been life since the Incas, and that whoever lives here is not impartial to a bag of crisps and a Coca Cola. Whilst this doesn't paint the best first impression of a country notorious for its historical wonders, this spoiled exterior is almost inkeeping with its charm as almost anywhere in Peru you can blow the sand off to find ruins of a civilisation gone by, but it is a younger generation leaving their mark now. When I said you can find ruins almost anywhere in Peru, I largely meant anywhere except Mancora, where the closest remnant of a pre‐Colombian era is
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