We arrived in Lijiang much after dark, and the air was cold, but also crisp and clear. Finally, after 3 months in the smog and city lights, we could see stars. It seemed gorgeous. We checked into our hotels, which were small compounds in the ancient city of Lijiang. Our rooms surrounded a courtyard, and they were fully equipped with squatty potties, but were missing heat. It was freezing in our room, especially at night, but we had heating blankets, which were lifesavers. During the first day in Lijiang, we attended a lecture on Dongba culture, which is a culture that stems from the Naxi ethnic minority. They have their own language, with a "writing" system (it is more like pictographs), and they also practice their own religion. We also watched a documentary on the Tea
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