Oh MY GOODNESS!! I am sore, more specifically my back and bum are sore, and not from anything naughty either! ;) I've just had a journey from HELL. So yesterday was a good day, we braved the streets of Delhi in a taxi to make it to the train station, where we boarded the Shatabi express to Amritsar, big city (well not big at all in their terms but pretty big) in Punjab. Now I was thinking all the worst things possible about Indian rail travel: Trains that ran about a day late, filthy holes in the rusting floor for toilets, loads of hassle from people at all station trying to flog you daal, newspapers, chai, whatever, but no I was really pleasantly surprised. We boarded an air-con carriage, where the seats were both clean and
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