To a mere bystander, Day of the Dead sounds rather ominous. But here in Mexico, this particular day is a celebration of life, through death. As the entire region prepares for Días de Los Muertos, streets and homes are spruced up, markets bustle with activity, the stalls are decorated with colourful symbolisms of death, everything from those beautiful Juan Torres sculptures, to marzipan bones, to little skulls made of sugar. Flower stands overflow with cempasúchsil, the orange marigold with a scent and colour so intense, the Aztecs used it because they believed it would guide their beloved ones back to their homes and alters. Here in San José del Cabo, up the bump street, my nose catches another drifting scent, the intoxication of freshly baked bread fills the air. On offer at the local Panaderia, the
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