The final day of my four-day hike on the Kungsleden was down through a birch forest, beside a river, lakes, and wetlands. About halfway through the day, mosquitoes turned up for the first time on the trip. There were more encounters with grouse, lemmings, a stoat, but the real excitement kicked in when I was least expecting it. After 8 hours walk, I passed a boat-landing, and had another 3 hours walk to go. I was still thinking about boats, when, through the birch forest, I glimpsed a wake on the lake, another glimpse made me think it was a very small boat, it couldn't be bigger than a jet-ski. But then a better glimpse through the trees made me realise that I was looking at the head and shoulders of a moose, swimming across the
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