Having spent the last several weeks in the middle of nowhere, it felt strange to be in Ushuaia, a huge bustling city of about 65,000 people. Well, it felt huge at the time. I nearly forgot what it's like to be around people and cars, noise and garbage, buildings and concrete. So getting to Buenos Aires, with a metropolitan population of about 13.5 million, was a huge shock to the system. Also, porteños (people from Buenos Aires) have a nearly incomprehensible accent, so that I feel like I'm hearing Portuguese rather than Spanish. Luckily I was prepared to hear posho instead of poyo (for the word pollo, or chicken), but I am still thrown off by some of the other "ll" words where I expect a "y" sound and hear a "sh" sound. My dad and
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