Preparations for bed are no quick and easy thing anymore – they require pre-planning and some effort. Whilst day time temperatures are a nice 20c, nightime temps drop below freezing. The nightime temperatures will only get lower as we sleep at higher altitudes, with a highest nights sleep at Gorak Shep expected to be -8c or lower in the room. All water to drink from is provided by our porters and guides from boiled water. At dinner time I hand over my camelback water bag (now empty) and my two 500ml drinking bottles (also empty) to the porters, and they return them some 30 minutes later. I take these to my room, lay out my sleeping bag and insert the sleeping liner. The now very warm camelback and drinking bottles are placed in my sleeping bag ... read more

We arrive at the Sunrise Lodge in time for lunch, which consists of a reasonable sized potion of vegetable chowmein washed down with some black tea – neither of which is something I would eat or drink back home, but here it seems the done thing. Only a week ago I would have been having lunch at work in a rather uninspiring canteen – and now I find myself eating lunch in the sunshine with the towering peak of Kongde Ri for company. I get issued with my room key and go take a look. It is fairly basic, which is what I was expecting, but does have an “en-suite” toilet and shower – the latter which only provides hot water at a temperature slightly below the temperature of the glacial cold tap. I decide to ... read more

Following the custom of the lands, we always make sure we pass to the left of all the ceremonial stones that often lie in the centre of the trails. It has been several hours of trekking and I start to develop a hot spot on my big toe – an early sign a blister might be on its way. Having walked 50 miles or so in my boots back home, without a single blister, it irks me that I might develop one so soon in this trek. Perhaps I didn’t tie my shoe laces up tight enough.... read more

The six trekkers in our group, and our guide leader Dirge and our other two guides head out on the trail from Lukla to Phakding, with a guide at the front and back to ensure no one goes to fast and to look after the stragglers. As the lone pomme in the group of Aussies, I dress appropriately for the occasion, and it is commented on that I look more Australian than they do. I am now on the lookout for some corks to complete my outfit. At this point I must apologies to my wife for hiding the yellow t-shirt in my luggage after promising I wouldn’t take it. As nearly all my trekking gear is either brown or black, I couldn’t resist a small splash of colour. It is an easy and gentle start ... read more

Piling out of the plane we headed for the nearest hotel for a spot of tea. My legs were still shaking, and from what I could see, the same for the rest of my trekking party. We met our two guides that would be with us on the trek, alongside out guide leader. We were also introduced to the porters who were busy strapping the large and heavy blue holdalls together to be transported to Phakding – our first days destination. In the days to come when I my 5kg day sack felt too heavy to bear, I reminded myself of the sherpas who were carrying 30kg + of our gear up the mountain ahead of us. Taking tea and finally starting to relax, I was able to soak up the skyline before me. Two snow ... read more