Richard M. Murphy

Tai Sanh

Richard M. Murphy

American living in Vietnam since 2005.



Asia January 28th 2010

Hue was very enjoyable despite the typically wet weather. I had visited the former imperial capital a couple of years ago, traveling with a tour group. This proved an effective way to quickly and efficiently get to the major historical attractions, but it didn't allow for much time to sample the city itself and interact with the locals. That's what I mostly did this trip, though I did pay a return visit to the magnificent Citadel complex. It was a challenge in Hue, as it has been in other parts of central Vietnam, to converse with the natives due to their unique use of the tone system. It wouldn't be far-fetched to say that I speak Vietnamese with less of an "accent" than the center-dwelling folk do, since I pretty much speak a lingua-franca mix of ... read more

Asia January 25th 2010

It was great having more time for Hoi An this trip than I did when I first visited back in 2007. Nice also was having a short ride up the coast to my next stop of Da Nang. I saw a lot of Danang back in '07 and might have skipped it entirely this time around, but I wanted to have my motorbike serviced. Da Nang is a major city (Vietnam's fourth-largest), so it would probably have everything necessary to repair the bike if needed. But "Sookie" was in great shape and content to just have an oil change and a few minor adjustments. That left me with nearly a full day and the next morning to enjoy the sun and surf at Da Nang's China Beach (My Khe). The beach and sea are cleaner than ... read more

Asia » Vietnam » Central Highlands January 23rd 2010

All remains well on this thrilling bike trip, which saw me in the central highlands town of Pleiku when I last wrote. There are a few sites to see in the Pleiku area, most notably perhaps Bien Ho, or Ocean Lake. But I enjoyed a good photoshoot of Bien Ho a couple years back, and there was some rain in Pleiku on the day I might have done some exploring. Instead, I just rode north up the Ho Chi Minh Highway 46 km to the town of Kontum, got a room, and explored that area on what turned out to be a pleasant afternoon. There are interesting sights within Kontum itself, including churches like the 100-year-old wooden church. But I agree with those who say that the best thing to do in Kontum is to get ... read more

Asia January 19th 2010

Just a week into the bike tour, and I've already noticed that a month is barely an adequate amount of time to get a good look at Vietnam. I would have liked to spend another day in Dalat, but instead it was time to head for the central highlands provinces of Dac Lac and Dac Nong. I made a wrong turn leaving Dalat (awfully easy to do here in Vietnam since roads and destinations often aren't clearly marked) and added an hour to my ride to Lac Lake, a ways south of Buon Ma Thuot in Dac Lac. Still I made it to Lac Lake a couple hours before nightfall, and I spent the night right on the lake's shore. The room I stayed in usually goes for $25 a night, but a tour guide in ... read more

Asia January 16th 2010

I began Day 4 back on the coast, in Ninh Chu, with my motorbike aimed at Dalat and the mountains to the west. I faced the coming day with a bit of concern, as I was about to make one of the major mountain climbs of the trip. Had there been wind or morning rain like I had experienced in previous days, this could have been a challenging trip. Turns out that I ascended to Dalat on what seemed the angels wings of great weather. Twisting, turing and climbing, I eventually found myself surrounded by pine trees and wildflowers like we see back west. And even with the sun shining, it was cool on the ride. I not only had donned my new long-sleeved Chargers jersey but also used my lite rainjacket as a windbreaker. Even ... read more

Asia January 14th 2010

After overnighting in Mui Ne, I began Day 2 by viewing Fairy Springs (Suoi Tien), which was just a five-minute walk from my resort. Much of southern Vietnam has very bright red soil, due to high levels of basalt. Fairy Springs is essentially a stream that runs through a radiant, beautifully-sculpted orange-red canyon. I made it there early enough to largely have the place to myself, so it made for a very pleasant morning. Then it was on the bike to head for Phan Rang, further up the coast from Mui Ne. I had to spend some of this day (and Day 3) on Highway 1. This is Vietnam's main thoroughfare, so it can get, well, wild. One sees everything from trucks and garish pink tour busses to oxcarts and schoolkids on this road. Hired drivers ... read more

Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Binh Thuan » Mui Ne January 12th 2010

Day 1 of the grand bike tour is just about under my belt, as I ready myself for a cold one and dinner. I'm spending the night at Thai Hoa resort in Mui Ne, a coastal resort and fishing town about 250 km north of Vung Tau. It was a perfect day for a bike ride: sunny but with a cooling breeze. One of those gotta have the sunscreen and chapstick days. All went well, and I just returned from getting some nice sunset photos* of the Mui Ne fishing village and some nearby sand dunes. Yes, sand dunes in Vietnam. I'm currently in the most arid region of the country. As it's just about always dry, warm and sunny here, Mui Ne is very popular with western tourists seeking relief from their cold winters. I'll ... read more

Asia » Vietnam January 11th 2010

I've now lived for nearly four years in Vung Tau, Vietnam, a coastal resort city about 40 miles southeast of Ho Chi Minh City. I've supported myself by teaching English. Vung Tau has much to offer, and the English teaching has rewarded both materially and spiritually. Still, about a year ago I decided that my Vietnam experience would be incomplete without living for a time in the north. Also, Hanoi up north has many universities. Back in the States I was a Research Specialist, doing sociological and psychological research with a group having university affiliations. I liked this old job of mine and feel it's unfortunate that I no longer use and develop skills I acquired working 15 years for the research group. Maybe in the capital I can get a job with a university and ... read more




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