We left Penang in the evening for a long, gruelling overnight bus journey to Kuala Besut (or so we supposed at the time). In general, I've been impressed by the quality of the coaches in Malaysia - you get plenty of space and they are well air-conditioned. I should have been able to sleep in them without too much trouble, except the road from Penang across the Peninsular took a winding route though the jungle and the hills, and the driver tended to hurtle around the corners, meaning I got thrown about too much. I got pretty cold too, as I'd only taken my old yellow Sarong with me for warmth (I bought a new one in Penang, by the way, with batik-printing chinese dragons on it, yelow on dark blue - it's nice) and the
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