Two days of flying and we are in Accra. It's dark, hot and humid. We are greeted by Armstrong, brightly dressed, helpful and smiling. The hotel is cool, the bed soft. In the morning we are greeted by more smiling, helpful people. In the hotel, in the street, in the market. We wander through the city to the coast - no real beach in Accra, just a rocky shore. Everywhere ladies sit on the roadside selling food, stationery, hardware, clothes. Ancient minibuses rattle past, hooting and belching diesel smoke. It is over 30 degrees and the humidity is near 100%. We don't so much sweat as melt. The next day we are off to the Millet Festival at Odumase. We arrive just as the parade of chiefs is starting. First come the lowest ranking chiefs, walking
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