Lapland

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Karesuando is in Finland and Sweden, straddling the river that is the modern border. The Russians put the border there after the last war, previously they kept losing the border in the snow.

We are 160 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle in January, everything is snow covered. The trees sparkle with frozen snow; the roads are sheets of compacted snow that require studded tyres; that river is not only frozen but covered in a thick blanket of snow that squeeks with every footstep.

On the day we arrive it is minus 11c. A couple of days later we are down to minus 28c and then the next day? Up to zero! Luckily, at -28c there is no wind.

Low temperatures require lots of clothes. We start with a thermal base layer - long johns and two long sleeved vests. Then add a middle layer - a heavy weight fleece and thermal padded trousers. Then we put on our outer thermal suit - huge, thickly padded, waterproof overalls. Add two pairs of socks and snow boots; two pairs of gloves; a snood round the neck, a thermal hat and a raised hood. We're ready to step into this frozen world.

Because of the deep snow, we cannot walk anywhere off the roads and paths. One step off line and our boots disappear into half a metre or more of soft snow. Snow shoes are the answer, they allow us to walk on top of the snow. At dawn, a snow shoe walk through the woods is magical. We try to work out what animals have made their tracks in the snow. Reindeer and fox are, apparently, the most likely candidates. The bears are all asleep.

For those who need to move faster, snow mobiles are the thing. We get an opportunity to try these, in deep snow, in the dark. Luckily it does turn out to be fairly easy and great fun but requiring a surprising amount of physical strength to steer the front skids. We weave through trees in the forest before dropping down the river bank and cruising the river to a reindeer camp.

We arrive at the camp just as the Northern lights start to fill the sky, sheets of errie green and yellow light. It is a mesmerising show.

Fancying a more traditional form of transport, we head out into the forest to meet our very own husky pack! Five howling dogs eager to pull us away before we have worked out how the sledge brake works. Two light people on a low friction sledge is an easy task for our dogs. We have the acceleration of a Ferrari and the brakes of a kid's scooter, it's an interesting mix. And our cornering skills are those of a runaway toboggan. We only crash once!

The ride is, actually, quite beautiful. We pass through woods and across lakes as the sun rises in a slow pink and orange dawn. Snow sparkles all around us and the only sound is the sledge's runners on the snow and the occasional husky bark. It is all over too soon. Well, that may be less than true. Any longer and they may have had to prise us off the sledge. It was minus 28c, a triffle chilly even with all those layers.

Our final form of transport was more sedate, a reindeer hauled sledge. Reindeer are not quick but can plod on forever. Our reindeer seems very docile but we are warned not to be misled, her impressive antlers are not there just for show! Reindeer herding has always been a big part of life in Lapland. Our young guide and reindeer handler was born just up the valley and is of Sami heritage. She is engaged to the owner of this reindeer herd. You have to feel that this lifestyle is in their blood.

We have the Aurora Alert on in our cabin. On Monday night is goes off, just as we climb into bed. Back on with all those clothes and off up the snowy hill to watch our second night of Northern lights. Spectacular. It happens again, later in the week. We stand on the snowy fells and watch this errie display of supernatural light in the sky.

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