Leaving our peaceful houseboat in Srinagar, we have taken trains south and then east. It has been a whirlwind of religions and languages – Buddhists, Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs speaking Ladahki, Kashmiri, Hindi and Punjabi. Keeping up can be tricky, but luckily most people speak some English. Jammu was just a stop on the way. We did visit a temple, suicide bombed in 2002, and a market which seemed to specialise in walnuts, blankets, cricket bats and dentistry. Our hotel was the only smart one in town and the best on the trip. A posh rooftop restaurant meal, with our first alcoholic drinks for days, cost just £16. Jammu station was dirty and busy and so was our train. Looking out, the mud on the window made the world sepia tinted. We were into the low
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