Escape by helicopter

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On arrival in Kathmandu, we got the bad news. We were due to fly out to Lukla the next day to begin our Everest trek but Lukla airport had been closed for 4 days due to bad weather. Tomorrow may be OK, they said, but it wasn't.

The next morning Kathmandu Domestic Terminal was a sea of would-be trekkers going nowhere. At lunchtime all the airlines gave up and we spent the afternoon sightseeing in Kathmandu. Maybe tomorrow will be OK, they said, but it wasn't.

The next morning, the airport scene was nearly the same except some flights did manage to get into Lukla in a short window in the weather. But we went nowhere.

Back in our Nepalese travel company's office, we had a robust discussion about the situation. This resulted in us being at the airport at 5:30 the next morning, with tickets for a helicopter. And so it was that we travelled across the Himalayan foothills, watching the early sun's rays shine on the panorama of mountains, including of course Everest. Just we two, a heap of mail bags, a chatty Aussie pilot who much preferred doing mountain rescue runs and a stupendous view. Magic.

Two days of trekking, with our guide Ashok and our young porter Pardin, has brought us to Namche Bazar. The first day's walking was gentle, along the Dudh Kosi river valley. We learnt the strict protocol of the paths and bridges. Yaks and other giant bovine pack animals get priority; followed by horses and donkeys; then sherpa porters; then other locals; then trekkers.

We spent our first night in a tea house. These are dotted all along the trails and provide basic beds and vegetarian meals. In this one the hot shower (1 pound 66p extra) is across the street and we brushed our teeth over a basin in the yard. After our 4:30 start, we are in bed early.

On the second day, we are out at 7 and spend the first half of the day continuing up the beautiful valley. It is a little misty but this soon clears to reveal blue skies and white topped mountains. We cross the river again and again on swaying suspension bridges - the river's white snow-melt water thunders below us. The walk is spectacular.

After an early lunch - vegetable fried rice and black tea - we start to climb and climb and climb. For three hours we slowly ascend, glad that we have to stop regularly to let yaks and donkeys pass. At a turn in the path, we suddenly get a view north and realise we are looking at Everest and, at its side, Lhotse. We are lucky to get a clear view and it looks oh-so-close.

Eventually we have climbed 1000 metres and the houses of Namche Bazar start to appear. We are shattered.

Our tea house here is really a small hotel where we are lucky to have a corner room. We have a fantastic view across the town and to the mountains - from our beds, we can see the first rays of the sun hitting them.

After a rest day here, we are looking forward to a week's trekking in this spectacular countryside. We will first head north west to Thame, right off the beaten track. Our next blog may be from Namche again as we return or from Kathmandu.

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