Forget the maple leaf. I think Canada's national symbol might be a coffee shop. On queueing at Canadian immigration, we got talking to a young couple from London (Ontario, not English capital). They were just returning to Canada after two years of living in Ireland. Having absolutely no idea of what to do and see in Toronto, this was the obvious query that we very quickly piped up with. I was hoping that they'd share a favourite arty neighbourhood with us, a quirky studenty cafe, that elusive club where you could stomp the night away to French drum n' bass or something. The girl, dressed head to toe in fleece (on second thoughts maybe she wasn't the best person to ask for such places...), thought for an extended period of time. Finally: "Err... d'you guys know
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