Page 12 of Nomad Old Farts Travel Blog Posts


South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz October 28th 2007

Hi folks, I regret to advise it has not been a good week for the old farts on the technical front. Firstly, we lost our camera a few days ago, and today our notepad computer has died on us. Wrt the camera, we had just finished a tour of the Inca ruins of the Sacred Valley near Cusco,when we took a motobike taxi over a heavily cobbled road to our hotel. Given we had the camera (with a hundred or so photos from the ruins that day) at the end of the days travels, but not later at the hotel, we can only assume it vibrated out of my pocket in transit, and one Peruvian moto driver is much the richer for it. The alternative is that it was stolen, but I guess we'll never know ... read more

South America » Peru » Cusco October 24th 2007

Sorry folks, we seem to have lost a bit of momentum on the blogs. A combination of a new camera and no computer has meant that I´ve had to rely on external resources (downloading of photos in retail shops and use of internet cafes) to get them rolling again, so there will be a bit of a delay, but we´ll get there. Regretfully, this will likely mean a reduction in the length of my narratives and the number of photos I include, but that may well come as a relief to some readers! This blog covers a bit of territory. We flew from Arequipa up to Cusco, which is well and truly nestled in the Andes and is real Inca country. Almost everywhere we travelled was magnificent scenery, most of which is beyond my limited powers ... read more
Ruins at Sachaywaman
Ruins at Pisac
Ruins at Ollantaytambo

South America » Peru » Cusco » Machu Picchu October 21st 2007

And so to Machu Picchu, arguably the ´jewel in the crown´ for our total visit. How sad to be going up there armed with only a box brownie equivalent disposable camera, but I guess at times life sucks! Anyway, our trip really started at the end of the Sacred Valley visit (see Cusco blog), as we opted out of this trip at Ollantaytambo, and stayed there the night (when I lost my camera), in order to reduce travel time to MP the following day. The train trip from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (AC), which is little more than a village a short distance from MP, is around 4 hours, but by getting onto the train at Ollan. we were able to reduce this journey by over half. The train used for this trip, called the Vistadome, ... read more
The terraces of Machu Picchu
The winding road to Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu
Main Square Aguas Calientes

South America » Peru » Arequipa October 17th 2007

Well the first surprise of the day occurred before our plane from Lima had even landed in Arequipa. Much to my surprise, we were greeted by what I can only describe as a ‘brownscape’. Its exactly 20 years since I was last in Arizona, but that was what it reminded me of - just barren brown desert, bordering a city that appeared from the plane to have brown roads, brown fields and brown houses. But first appearances can be deceiving, and while there is no doubt that Arequipa does not have an overabundance of rain (made me feel quite homesick!), it is actually a very attractive city, with definite similarities to Cuenca in Ecuador. It is actually known as the “White City”, due to the large number of buildings constructed of an off-white volcanic rock ... read more
Vista from Cayma
Iglesia San Juan Batista at Yanahuara
Central Plaza with Cathedral in background

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon October 15th 2007

OK guys, a quick quiz to start the day! What is the deepest canyon in the world? No, it's not the famous Grand Canyon in Arizona, USA, nor the Copper Canyon of northern Mexico. It is indeed the Colca Canyon, situated high in the Andes in southern Peru, which for 100 km averages 3,400 metres deep. The only practical way for us to get to this fairly desolate location, some 300kms round trip along windy roads in only average condition, was on an organised tour. And if you want to see the condors in flight (and who doesn’t?), it requires an overnight stop and a very early start on day 2. So our intimate little tour group of a Dutch couple, an Israeli couple, a Frenchmen and a guy from Uruguay duly joined us for ... read more
Local church in Chivay
Llamas & alpacas grazing on the boggy terrain of the altiplano
A condor at full flight over the Canyon

South America » Peru » Lima » Lima » Miraflores October 12th 2007

As anticipated, our move across the border from Ecuador to Peru did not result in any major observable change in surroundings or the environment. We had not heard hugely flattering reports of Lima (certainly vis a vis Arequipa and Cusco), mainly in terms of its standard of living and crime rate. Now just as we may have been unfair on Ecuador at times, due the relatively small sample we saw, maybe we are being overly fair with Lima, for the same reason, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. Mind you, we did stay in a great part of town, Miraflores, and in a nice hotel, and our main exposure to the actual city was just the touristy downtown area, so we didn’t get to see any of the “shantytowns” warned about in the brochures. Miraflores is ... read more
The "Boat Quay" of Lima
Plaza Mayor
La Catedral of Lima

South America » Ecuador » Galápagos October 7th 2007

Our flight from Guayaquil to Baltra on the Galapagos took around 1.5hrs and was pretty uneventful. On arrival, we met our 13 fellow travellers for the next 8 days aboard MV Letty. Quite an interesting mix of 15 pax - 9 female & 6 male; 8 of our generation (I’m probably the oldest!) and 7 kids around their 20’s; 6 Brits, 6 Americans and 3 Aussies. And most importantly, everyone mixed really well. To service the 15 guests, we had 11 crew, incl the captain & 2 assistants, 2 naturalist guides (Orlando & Harry, both very knowledgable and experienced, with excellent English), 2 engineers, 2 cooks, a barman & a housekeeper, who all looked after us all fantastically well. The company running the cruise was called Ecoventura - you could do far worse than contact them ... read more
View from the 'Pinnacle Rock' on Bartolome, probably the most often published view of the Galapagos
No shortage of Sea Lions on this beach in Mosquera
I know I was unfaithful once, but that was 200 years ago!

South America » Ecuador » West » Guayaquil September 30th 2007

We have finally reached Guayaquil, the takeoff point for our flight to the Galapagos this Sunday, and the largest city (2 million pax) in Ecuador (you ignorant sods thought Quito was, didn’t you?). Along with being the largest city, it has the largest crime rate, and those that warned us there was little attractive to the tourist about Guayaquil weren’t wrong. It is a big bustling city, and frankly has few very attractive parts, and we have not seen a single person in native dress, as we have in all other parts of Ecuador, including Quito. Given that we had a couple of days to kill, we decided to take a fleeting trip up the ‘Ruta del Sol’ (or the ‘Route of the Sun’ - haven’t you guys learnt any Spanish yet?), which is on ... read more
Iguanas roaming in Parque Seminaria
Holiday Villas at Ballenita
Street scene at Montanita

South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca September 25th 2007

I’m really using some licence here, quoting yet again from that famed authority Lonely Planet, but they certainly got it right this time. We basically have some time to kill prior to our Galapagos cruise, and Cuenca was a great place to just chill out for 5 days. It is a big enough city (400,000 pax, #3 in Ecuador) that you are not running into the same people all the time as you stroll around, but it doesn’t have the hustle and bustle traditionally associated with big cities. More importantly, in the central part of the city where we stayed, it has narrow cobblestone streets, white-washed red tile buildings, and many plazas, generally backed by old domed churches. Furthermore, it lies on the banks of a very attractive river, where women still wash their clothes ... read more
Street scene in Cuenca
So how much do I owe you then?
One of the many orchids on display

South America » Ecuador » Centre » Riobamba September 19th 2007

Actually folks, I just wanted to get your attention, as the last couple of blogs might have been somewhat lacking in adrenalin! The quote above was from Lonely Planet (and who would question such an authority), and while this train ride certainly had its moments, I think the bus ride later more fitted that description. But more on that later. As expected, Riobamba, a city of some 120,000 people, had little special to offer. Like all South American cities, it has more than its fair share of (Catholic) churches, but the general cityscape are not that attractive and it does not particularly cater for the tourist. Given that you can spend just so much time walking the streets of Ecuadorian cities, and we have covered a fair bit of that ground already, we decided to ... read more
Mt Chimborazo, highest mountain in Ecuador
Our train from Riobamba
The famed 'Devil's Nose'




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