Some small words about my father

Maile Black

Some small words about my father

My father taught me how to travel. No, not “how,” let me be more careful. He taught me to travel. Under his guidance and fine example, I experienced the sound of Russian violins on the Trans-Siberian Railroad, the market smells of baguettes and lavender soap in the Luberon, sashimi and hot baths outside Kyoto, and blistering tamale pie in Tijuana. I was four and my brothers were six and eight when our family went on sabbatical. We spent most of the school year in France and traveled around lots of the rest of the world too. Sixteen months, total. My father believed in the kind of travel where you actually spend time in a place and get to know it. We were a couple of months in a chateau in the Loire Valley in northern France, then several more outside Nice on the Riviera; a month in Scotland, three weeks in Japan.

The merry month of May last year was stupid. I turned 42 on the first, which doesn’t really bother me except that it seems so much older than 39, which was the age at which I stepped into a steaming pile of soul-shattering love and lost myself in time and space until I finally got my bearings and stepped back out--last May. But all of it stopped mattering when my father fell and broke his hip on Mother’s Day, and spent the next five days in codeine-surrealized Hell, until they finally were able to perform surgery. He went into cardiac arrest after the surgery, then into a coma, and died the next day.

My father lived in the whole world, not just a small corner of it. And when he conversed and interacted with the world, it was always in an attempt to see where other people had been, and to tease out their stories and tell his own, about diving with barracuda in the Caribbean, or putting out the fires of nasi goreng at dinner parties in Indonesia.

The following travel tales are not always directly about my father or the loss of him, but he raised a happy traveler, so it is to him that I dedicate the blog. Thanks, Daddy. See you in the sparkles on every ocean.




Central America Caribbean » Guatemala August 21st 2008

August 21. Tikal Up at 3:50 AM yesterday (alarm did not go off. Luckily C coughed) to catch a bus to Guatemala City, then flight to Flores, another bus to Tikal. Of course the first bus was an hour late, but we still made it to the airport on time. Aaah, the airport. We were in Heaven. There was a Starbucks-like coffee shop (best latte ever), air conditioning, clean floors, space. Just like every other airport, familiar, stark, surprisingly efficient, cosmopolitan. Lots of English speakers. Cassady visibly relaxed. Like I said, Heaven. I admit, I am the boringest. Eventually we got to the hotel in Tikal, inside the park and very close to the ruins. I thought we would be able to relax for a bit, swim in the pool, aaah, but NO. Our small tour ... read more
Distant spires
No subir
Scaffolding

Central America Caribbean » Guatemala August 17th 2008

August 17 Ack! It’s really hard to keep up with the recording of events when we are so busy living them. But the Pacaya Volcano. Emerald green on black. Teeny hungry kids on donkeys renting walking sticks and buying candy with the profits. The volcano itself was ridiculously cool, all oozing and red hot. At the advice of a cohort, Cass and I had brought along some marshmallows to roast, which we did, over a fissure in the rock (you could look into it and see red oozing lava two feet down). There were a couple of moments on that hike that I thought could have been fatal to my child—not so hard to make one misstep and fall into a roiling crevasse to your fiery death. He didn’t. But the biggest part of this day’s ... read more
Beautiful and septilingual (or something)
Ready
AJW MacKenzie's great great grandson

Central America Caribbean » Guatemala August 13th 2008

August 13 OK, so Cass threw up on the way to Semuc Champey. It was so funny. He gets car sick anyway, but he’s hyper-nervous these days and the road was the windiest, dustiest, deisel fuel-iest ever. He was TOTALLY suffering (in silence—I was so proud), but then he had to turn to me and say, “Mom, actually I think I am going to throw up right now. Yeah. I am.” So we pulled over and the guide was so nice and funny (“This happens every time. Don’t worry.”), and the Israelis were so enthralled with the event that they took pictures and couldn’t pull their eyes away from my Cassady, doubled over and puking in the bushes. The road, by the way, from Coban to Semuc Champey: greengreengreeeeeen—it rains a lot there—spotted with stilted shacks, ... read more
Semuc Cham-postcard
Paradise indeed
Oh Carlos!

Central America Caribbean » Guatemala August 12th 2008

August 12 Oh my sweet peanuts, I love it here. Back to crazywild excursion: Our grupo included an Israeli couple on honeymoon. Yogi, the guy, is a drummer in a band called Coolooloosh (“You haven’t heard of us? We’re very popular in Israel!”). At first I thought they were cool, but then: van ride, too long; food, disgusting; restaurant, too cold; coffee, ick; service, too slow—ya know. Oh brother, people. The wife was a lawyer, smart-seeming and laid back. I really couldn't see what possible logic she'd applied in marrying George Costanza, but where is the logic, ever, in matrimony? Oh don't get me started. Cristiana from Germany proved again that I am a terrible judge of character, cause I didn’t like her at first. When Cass sat down next to her in the van, she ... read more

Central America Caribbean » Guatemala August 11th 2008

August 11. Batful of Caves. No quiero me olvidar los eventos de la semana. Fascinating. Such a blast. Dazzling. Strenuous. There’s a whole world of people out there, including delicious, brilliant, and witty Guatemalteco guides. And bats! So we left Friday for Coban. I had exactly zero idea what we were getting into, but I heard Semuc Champey and the caves were totally cool, so we squeezed ourselves and our packs onto an itty bitty bus and released all control. Of course we left a little late—it’s the norm here—nothing is ever on time. And we got stuck in Guatemala City in rush hour traffic—muy interessante! What we saw of Guatemala City (from the 6-lane highway running through it) is basically a gigantic slum and, from all reports, rather a dangerous one. I mean, they say ... read more
Guatemala City


August 5. Senora Mazariegos’s house, Antigua. Got here yesterday. Is it mustard yellow? These plaster walls are happybright, the color of Kraft cheese powder. The ceiling and door are rough hewn planks, and floors, of course, red tile. I’m sitting on one of the two teeny twin beds, rock hard, looking at a rickety desk and ancient wardrobe. The bare fluorescent bulb radiates a slightly warmer light since I covered it with a red bandanna. The window into the courtyard is wide open—so far, the mosquitoes are nothing near as bad as they warned us about. I can, however, feel the mold spores cackling madly as they attack my nasal cilia and carouse their way into my immune system. Cassady started to wheeze the instant we walked through the door. This ought to be an interesting ... read more
So much depends upon a red wheelbarrow
Fiesta!




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