Since I last wrote, Indie and I have travelled around 800km south. We are currently in the quiet trading town of Hoi-An in Central Vietnam. In the last week we have: visited the picturesque highlands of Sapa; bribed a ticket inspector to let us stay on a train; pissed off a couple more of the locals; seen mysterious caves, temples and ruins; and bought loads of tailor-made clothes. Oh, and our wallet was stolen too. I previously mentioned the omnipotent vendors here in Nam. They are becoming an irritating thorn in our side: everywhere we turn, they try to hawk us their motorbike rides, taxis, embroidery, bottled water, local food, custom-made clothes, shoes, tours and 'massages'. In the highlands of Vietnam we saw stunning scenery - mountains, valleys, lakes and a waterfall. We also had to
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