Continued from TOURING A COUNTRY WITHOUT KNOWING LOCAL LANGUAGES. Rif Mountain While moving in Fez, I met Mike, an American tourist who had been in Morocco many times in the past. I joined him and we went to a town called Ketema about 200 km away in the Rif mountain. The approach was very scenic and fascinating, the valley sides being terraced as far as the eyes can see with kif (hashish) growth, sanobar firs and cedar forests. It was a land reminiscent of Southern Spain, only seventy miles away across the Straits of Gibraltar. We left the taxi at Ketema and walked for 2 km to meet one of Mike's friends, Elbrazi. He greeted Mike by seven quick kisses on both the cheeks and led us inside his house. A boy came in with a
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