After four bus rides, a border crossing, a walk across town and a lift in the back of a pick up truck from some friendly locals, Andrea and I made it to Hosteria Izhcayluma, close to Vilcabamba in the hills of southern Ecuador, just as reception was closing. The project of German brothers Peter and Dieter, Izhcayluma was the closest to luxury accommodation I've experienced this year, with a good restaurant, bar, swimming pool, massage centre and great views of the town and surrounding hills. Vilcabamba is a small town with a relaxed atmosphere and constant spring-like climate. These qualities, combined with Ecuador's relatively low cost of living, have attracted many foreigners, particularly from the USA, to settle in the area in recent years. (Its reputation for the longevity of its residents may also be a
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