We awoke early in the damp and deserted hotel where we were staying in Tam Dao National Park - an eerily dark, dank place that did not seem to have had guests in a while. After settling up ($7 US per room a night), we headed down the hill with Mr. Kwa, ENV's hired driver, to the Tam Dao Environmental Training Center to meet up with the Cambodian team. We loaded a van and headed into the countryside, down red dirt roads past dozens of schoolchildren on bicycles heading to school. Occasionally we had to stop for a water buffalo or cow in the road, usually being led by a small kid. At one point, English, Cambodian and Vietnamese were all being spoken in the van and Vietnamese opera played on the car radio. The villages
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