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Published: December 9th 2006
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We awoke early in the damp and deserted hotel where we were staying in Tam Dao National Park - an eerily dark, dank place that did not seem to have had guests in a while. After settling up ($7 US per room a night), we headed down the hill with Mr. Kwa, ENV's hired driver, to the Tam Dao Environmental Training Center to meet up with the Cambodian team.
We loaded a van and headed into the countryside, down red dirt roads past dozens of schoolchildren on bicycles heading to school. Occasionally we had to stop for a water buffalo or cow in the road, usually being led by a small kid. At one point, English, Cambodian and Vietnamese were all being spoken in the van and Vietnamese opera played on the car radio.
The villages became smaller and smaller until we arrived at our destination - a small commune (village) adjacent to Tam Dao National Park.
ENV sponsors a village education program similar to a charette which is often using in the planning process for parks in the US. A park ranger facilitates the program and coordinates the date with the head of the village, then the head
of the village issues invitations to community stakeholders inviting them to attend the meeting.
The village kindergarten room was vacated for the occasion and little kids peered at us from behind trees and building walls. Many of them had not seen a Westerner, and they were very unsure about us at the beginning. We took their photos and tried to lure them closer to look at our LCD screens, but they resisted for at least 20 minutes. We gave up and walked down a road to a vista point, but as we turned around we saw we'd been followed by 8 squirming, curious and giggling children. They warmed up and were soon mugging for photos and playing chase back to the village.
As those invited entered the building, large platters with teapots and thimble teacups were distributed throughout the room. About 45 men and women came in and sat down on narrow wooden benches, the men clad in button down shirts and baseball hats and the older women with betelnut-stained teeth wearing head scarves. A single lightbulb hung from the ceiling, dangling in front of a photo of Ho Chi Minh surrounded by a magenta mat. Faded flags
were strung around the top of the ceiling, but other than that the room was virtually bare. The meeting was called to order and the village leader took roll call.
They were divided into 8 groups to explore issues about the importance of the park and its health. After sitting on wooden stools outside and completing flip charts and identifying presenters, they returned to the classroom for what may have been a 2 hour reporting out process filled with lively debate about who collects firewood - men or women - how many people are still hunting in the park, etc. They were very focused and serious about this process, and a few of the men took full advantage of the limelight to practice their public speaking skills.
As we left the room after the meeting, we were impressed with the sophistication of the training and the empowering process it was for those in the village. Someone could have gone to them and dictated what needed to be done, but by immersing them in a process of self-identification, they are much more likely to make changes on their own.
We weren't sure what was going to happen next.
We milled around and played with the kids and prepared to hop back in the van for Tam Dao, but then something seemed to be happening. A big stack of wooden benches arrived by motorbike. Then huge platters of food started materializing as women brought them out of the local houses and into the meeting room. We were invited for lunch!
This is where my vegetarianism kind of freaks me out because very little of what is traditionally served is vegetarian, and this meal was very LOCAL. We sat around small tables and the food was served communally, so we ate rice and I plucked tofu from the plate with my chopsticks and discreetly chewed a Pepto Bismol tablet on the side. A grimy bottle with what appeared to be dirty water in it was brought to the table and we were all poured a small cup of it. Oh, no. Rice wine (zee-oh) for lunch.
The village head offered a toast. "Together, we will save the environment!" he said. Then all heck broke loose as food was shuffled in and out, more and more platters of shredded meat bits were brought to the table, and a parade
A rice wine toast
Notice Ho Chi Mihn in the background... of village officials stopped by our table to "have a drink" with us. They'd toast, we'd all clink cups, he'd down his, and we'd sip delicately. Wendy, Karen and I were all at different tables. But never fail - they'd refill the cups every time. When the bottle of rice wine appeared to be empty, one of them would call for more and a woman would bring over a grimy kettle and refill the bottle. They'd shake hands and move on to the next table for another drink.
A few of them pantomimed that they wanted their pictures taken. One man wanted me to take his photo with the oldest woman in the village - she's 86, but looks 105. Then he wanted his photo taken with the oldest couple, and then he wanted his friend to have his photo taken, too. They grinned widely, showing the betelnut stains on their teeth. The old women in particular chew the nut and display reddish purple teeth.
After lunch, we all managed to extricate ourselves from the festivities and one of the men invited us to see his home, a traditional style house built on stilts with the ground for
the livestock. On the porch, a woman washed dishes and a few puppies played. We went up the stairs and removed our shoes. Inside (on the floor!) a small fire burned and a kitten wandered around. We could see through the bamboo slats of the floor to the ground below. They were fascinated with our fascination and laughed as we faltered walking along the pieces of bamboo. Several large platters of produce and meat chunks were on the ground -- good thing we saw it after eating! Heads of things and feet of things were also included.
It was with genuine hope that we left the village - hope for them that their livelihoods improve and that they can find ways to exist in harmony with the park. They waved goodbye and the kids stared again as the van rolled out of town, back through the countryside of Vietnam.
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Judy Pell
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Fascinating picture of the people
Time has stood still, for them, has it not? You haven't mentioned the weather? Is it warm there now? Australia was very warm when we were there this time of year..13 years ago. I told you to boil everthing! Much love, Grammie and Grampie..the sleeping giant.