All Indochina had to offer! Part 2

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With my new group, I was ready to take on Vietnam and all it had to offer. With Hanoi covered, it was time to move onto Halong Bay for an overnight boat stay in this Unesco World Heritage Site. The boat, very plush, excellent seafood and me scoring my own room, all was good with the world. It was amazing and the weather couldn't have been better. We took a trip into the 'Surprising Cave' which had lots of surprising features. ? One in particular caught my eye, supposedly called the 'pointing finger'. However, as far as my new mature group were concerned, we agreed it looked like something else! I'll let you decide. ? The second was the ceiling, which had a waved pattern providing evidence it had been eroded by seawater. Its not all filth. ? Later we took the opportunity to visit Ti-Top Island walking up the 402 steps to take in a 360°C panorama. Halong Bay being made up of 1600 islands, we could only see a small vista of this impressive place. The turquoise water surrounding these sheer compact green islands made for a spectacular view. It was hot and sticky at the top so what better way to cool off than take a swim and watch the sun go down. It was simply beautiful and the temperature of the water, quite pleasant or at least four of us thought so with Jo, Andrew, Martin and I taking a dip. Our entertainment on board that night consisted of 'Kien' our local guide for this area, killing it on Karaoke, as he drank free poured whisky. It was a sight and sound to behold. ? Thank goodness we cut him off at 10pm. Before leaving the area completely the next morning, a few of us took the opportunity to kayak into an open cave system to enjoy a different perspective of this amazing landscape. Here we glimpsed monkeys playing in the surrounding trees and islands so named for what they looked like. This was the city escapism I'd craved. The air slightly less filled with petro chemicals was a welcome relief. Back on board our main vessel and awaiting brunch, now feeling it was alot later than what it actually was, I joined Daniella for a Gin and Tonic at 10am, as we made our way back to the main harbour, drinking in the views, literally. The remainder of the day spent travelling back to Hanoi, to catch the overnight train to Hue, once the Imperial Capital of Vietnam. We broke up the bus journey by stopping at a Pearl manufacturing site were they implant small mother of pearl beads into varying species of oyster to create the different pearls to be used for jewellry. A very intricate and interesting process with us viewing each step in great detail, in this area famous for its Oyster beds. We got to Hanoi and grabbed a truly lovely meal in a little place hidden down what looked like a dodgy alleyway. It included a demonstration of how to make proper Vietnamese Egg Coffee which was becoming a firm favourite of mine since trying it. My meal, the traditional and popular Vietnamese dish known as Bun Cha consisting of a pork broth, rice noodles and fresh herbs didn't touch the sides. The flavours equisite and a pure joy to eat. Fed and happy, I was ready to face another overnight train journey. In fairness this train was different from the previous one with us sharing in private cabins of four. Well I'd lucked out with three male companions and it being the party cabin.? The drinks flowed as we tested how many of the group we could fit in this compact unit. It was a great way to get to know the new group with me being extremely impressed with Ilse and Daniellas planning. Chopping board, knife, fresh ingredients, and wine created a five star offering. Visal, also a man with a plan with ice bucket, lime, vodka and sprite ready to rock this party. It was great fun. I brought a touch of class with the red stuff. All of which, ensured I was out for the count, ending the evening playing cards with Dan in the dark after Visal and Martin had already crashed. We arrived at our hotel in Hue around mid morning. It was hot, drizzly and Christmas Eve, so time to pick up my secret santa gift at the local market. It was about a twenty minute walk from the hotel over the bridge that spanned the Perfume river. The market giving an incredible insight into local life in this place. It was huge with many selling fresh vegetables, fish and meat all set up outside. The internals of the market jam packed with stalls selling everything you could imagine. Wandering around looking for inspiration on what to get the lucky person I had drawn the day before, I came across a local family singing christmas songs on karaoke and enjoying food in a big group with the Christmas spirit spilling out in abundance. Trying inconspicuosly to grab a pic of this wonderful scene in the middle of the market, I somehow ended up singing 'White Christmas' on the mic that had now been shoved under my nose. Them singing Vietnamese, and my dulcet welsh tones spouting english made for a very interesting rendition of this Christmas classic. I was taken aback about how much I'd changed. Since it now appeared I had the confidence to gate crash someone elses Christmas party when we couldn't even speak the same language.? Luckily for me, a smile seems to be the universal key of engagement. Gift sourced, along with some perfume, tinsel and bits and bobs, I left reflecting on the wonderful experience I'd just had, thinking...'Did that really just happen?'. That afternoon it was time for more culture and take in one of the many royal tombs that lay along the Perfume River. The Khai Dinh Tomb, embraced the concept of feng shui and had an impressive chinese inspired designed tomb consisting of incredible, intricate mosaiced designed walls that surrounded the Emperors Tomb. It was most impressive and I loved the small army of warriors that lined the courtyard. These very much reminiscent of the terrocotta ones in China. A visit to the Imperial Citadel followed to this one time capital city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once home to the Imperial family, the site contained many palaces, gateways, courtyards and gardens although much had been destroyed during the Vietnam War. The fortress walls still intact, demarcating the huge footprint of this Forbidden Purple city, modelled on the Chinese Forbidden City. It was interesting to hear about the UNESCO project to try and restore this place to its former glory. That evening, we doned our Christmas attire and had food in a restaurant close to our hotel. It was a great little place with a good atmosphere, fabulous cocktails and some lovely food. I ordered a rice pancake to start which was crispy and contained minced pork and shrimp. It was gorgeous and really filling. For main I'd opted for stir fried chicken and cashew nuts with rice. This was ok but nothing to rave about. Mojito cocktails being the drink of choice to wash them all down. We sat and chatted and I learnt how to play Monopoly cards with Ilse and Daniella, Martin and Carolyn before hitting the pool table for a few games of doubles. Everyone heading back fairly early gave me a chance to grab a glass of wine and enjoy Christmas across the globe with my family over Skype. It was at last, Christmas day and even though everywhere we had been was decorated to the hilt, it still didn't feel right in my eyes. It was too hot and humid. Today, I was going to push some personal boundaries as I'd signed up to take in a scooter tour of Hue before moving on to Hoi An later that day. With this tour, we each had a rider and was told to place our hands on our drivers sides. Sod that, I was clung to him like a monkey from start to finish, I shit myself. Not helped by the fact I was with the leader of the group barely looking over his shoulder to face what we were heading towards. In my personal opinion, I wasn't sure if he'd passed his test or if that was even a thing out here, as he weaved in and out of the traffic trying to squeeze through the smallest of gaps. The off road section, no better as we scrambled up hill tracks for a view of the river. I was just merely grateful everytime we stopped and got off, not knowing if I was likely to see another Christmas. The photo I had taken, showing just how much I was hating every minute. The final straw when he pushed his way through traffic on a large roundabout when on the phone. I was done! I was pleased I'd experienced it but this was one thing that never needed to be repeated! Funnily everyone else loved it. For me, the risk assessment showed it was a step too far. ? We returned back around midday and went straight to lunch to grab something to eat before departing this place for good. My initial order, a G&T to steady the nerves! It was Christmas Day and we had a 5 hour bus journey to Hoi An. Luckily, I had taken care of some planning, so with cups and wine in tow, the party got started with some vino and card games. All doned in my hat and tinsel, I was getting into the festive spirit. The journey taking us up high along the coast providing some tremendous views as we headed south. Dressed to impress I scored the role of Santa and the fun began with us all opening our Secret Santa gifts. This was a right laugh watching the expressions and elements of surprise on everyone's face. Me getting a 'Hello Kitty' face mask! Feeling very festive, we got to Hoi An, early evening, just in time for a new term I had come across from Ilse and Daniella, 'Sundowners'. This being a drink, thats routine in South africa around 6pm. Well I didn't need to be asked twice. Bags dropped, ten minutes later, we had a cocktail in hand and was making the most of this festive day. That night, we enjoyed dinner in one of the many restaurants in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Hoi An. With the crowning glory being my Marks and Spencer Christmas Pudding. With a few of us finishing the evening off on cocktails. Over the next few days, I wandered through this pretty town and took in a bicycle tour passing rice fields and vegetable allotments. A bamboo boat ride through a 200 year old water coconut forest. An amazing vegetarian restaurant trying fresh lotus flower salad. A hidden beach with some serious rough waves that just beckoned us to jump in them. A rice noodle cooking class. A 17th Century Japanese bridge. I sampled some amazing dumplings and shrimp minced skewers along with a rice pancake from the local market. I took a traditional coffee over looking this beautiful area from across the river. Discovered a vietnamese 'Anna' with a reputable tailoring shop. My time here bursting at the seams with things to see and do. My senses taking in this wonderful living museum of architecture and urban lifestyle with dutch, chinese, japanese and indian influences established since the 16th and 17th centuries. My time just flying by in this interesting corner of Vietnam. Talking of flights, it was time to take another to our last destination in this fascinating, foodie heaven, yet chaotic country. We were off to Hoi Chi Minh (historically, Saigon). On my God, it was intense. 13 million people in this one area was way too much for this princess to handle. There were scooters, everywhere, the road, the pavement, in front of you, to the side, up your arse! It was exhilarating, annoying, exhausting all at once. I struggled to comprehend the constant stampede of traffic and people. Although our first meal in this crazy place was fabulous and if its good enough for Bill Clinton, its good enough for me. The restaurant called Pho 2000 specialises in rice noodle soup dishes. For me they are a touch too spicy so I grabbed a noodle dish with beef, pototoes and carrots. It was cheap and delicious along with my first coconut water. Late afternoon we took a stroll with Visal to get our bearings passing another bride and groom having their wedding photo's taken amidst the hectic streets. It was dark by six thirty and we headed out for dinner before hitting the Donkey Bar for cocktails. A culture experience was required the following morning after breakfast, so we visited the Cu Chi tunnels. This unique architectural structure is a system of deep underground tunnels having several floors and alleys which branch off mimicking a spiders web. They are over 250km long with strategic places for dining, living, meeting and fighting. The tunnels were used extensively by the Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat as well as serving as communication and supply routes. They were of great importance in the Viet Congs resistance to American forces and helped to counter the growing American military effort. I walked 100m through them and its hard to imagine what it would have been like to have had to stay in there for any length of time. Our guide had been in this area during the war as an interpretor for the Americans. It was incredible his ability to openly share with us is real experience of such a place. That afternoon I followed my two new foodie friends Daniella and Ilse to a rather cool street food restaurant, located close to the Notre Dam Cathedral and Colonial Post office. So after enjoying some mud snails and mini rice cakes in a wonderful fish sauce, we headed over to take a peek before making our way back to get ready for sundowners at the Saigon Saigon Bar. The view, incredible from the top with the four of us enjoying the wonderful sunset on the craziness below and watching Ho Chi Minh City illuminate before our very eyes. We had sat facing the cathedral which was edged in light. It really was a beautiful site. Cocktails, Spirits, Wine accompanied this little ensemble to make it a highlight of the day. We were settling in nicely but alas it was time to meet the others for a farewell dinner and the new group that would take on Cambodia. Dinner tonight was in a fancy hotel with the restaurant located on the top floor. The food mediocre but the cocktails wonderful. We were saying farewell to eight of our group with Hannah, Charlotte, Hayley, Agata, Mariya, Jo, Helen and Peter joining us. To finish off the evening, for those who hadn't had enough of rooftops, a small group of us headed off to Broma Bar to enjoy some killing tunes and a final tipple. After saying our farewells the night before, most of our original group joined us to see the villages along the Mekong Delta. Here we sampled many aspects of local village life. As we strolled across Unicorn Island we took in some traditional songs accompanied with local music. During which time we sampled Dragonfruit, Papaya, Melon and Pineapple all of which are grown there. We were then shown inside one of the houses before continuing on across the Island to sample honey, directly from the honeycomb still protected by bees. It was simply gorgeous. Becoming one, with nature in this wonderful setting, I took the opportunity to hold one of the sections of the homemade beehive before moving on and holding rather a large snake. Well, when in Rome and all that!? On another island we watched the process of making toffee sweets out of coconut milk and got to taste a variety of flavours. The flavour was fine but the texture was really chewy. Local whisky tasting followed which was a rough brew. Another Island beckoned and with it, a crazy yet fun open Tuk-tuk ride that took us through the single road rat runs between the houses. Our driver loving the accelerator made me think I was on a Ghost train ride. Fast on the straight then slow and steady round the bends. It was also fun dodging the overgrown palm leaves that were just the right height to slap us in the face. Being sat just behind the driver, I could duck. Unfortunately, I was failing miserably on telling those just behind. Whoops. ? From here we took a small longboat paddled by a tiny woman through the canal way until we returned to our larger vessel to get back to the mainland. It had been a really interesting trip and wonderful to see the Mekong again. That night it really was a farewell dinner with Daniella, Ilse and Dan as we enjoyed a final tapas meal along with Evelyn and Sherwin in a great little place a short taxi ride from our hotel. Dan, however we'd catch up again as he would now be joining Su my old tour leader two days later. The following day it was fairwell Vietnam and hello Cambodia as we crossed the border and headed to Phnom Penh. We started with a Cyclo City Tour and this was so much more me, than the bloody scooter, as I sat there like the queen being cycled around. I loved the feel of this place. It was much smaller than Ho Chi Minh City and that put me at ease. We stopped to take in the Grand Palace and enjoy the atmosphere of families enjoying dinner together along the Mekong River. It was here I tasted an Embryonic egg. To be honest, it just tasted like egg only you could see some of the formed chick. It wouldn't be everybodies cup of tea. ? It was back to base for a quick change to hit the town for dinner and see in the New Year. The restaurant was amazing, the food sublime with me ordering a salmon with a basil pesto potato salad, superb bottle of red which I shared with Martin and a prosecco cocktail to start. Everyone was all dressed up and ready to party. After dinner we headed to Unique Bar to call in the New Year. It was a really cool place with a band playing good music set in some ruins. It was warm enough to be out in this fab open air space and as we called in 2017, I quickly flashed back to how I'd called in 2016 and couldn't quite comprehend the year I had just had. We were all on the dance floor at this point having a whale of a time. It was an excellent start to what I hoped would be another interesting chapter. New Years Day started with a sombre and sobering visit to the Killing Fields and S21 Prison. It was harrowing seeing the skulls of victims stacked in the memorial tower. Even more so with the graphic images of torture seen at the prison. That afternoon with free time, I walked to Wat Phnom temple to chill out and take in this great little place. On my way back, I stepped into the Market to try and grab a new top but the Cambodians with no tact at all, made it perfectly clear that their one size tops weren't going to fit. ?? This wasn't exactly how I'd envisaged Day 1 of my new year! Devastation and Diet needed! Oh well it could only get better right and it did with a wonderful boat cruise that evening overlooking the Royal Palace as the sunset and Phnom Penh illuminated in the dimming light. It was also interesting to view the families living in houseboats on the opposite side. The night ending again in yet another Sky Bar called Eclipse. It was worth it even after the hours wait to get in with great views and live music. Although the 22 flights of stairs I ended up walking down were a little harsh after missing the floor with the lift. ? Myself, Hannah and Charlotte the last ladies standing of the evening got a tuk tuk back to base. The next morning we were off already to our final destination Siam Reap. The days simply flying by. On the way, we stopped to try some local delicacies which included, tarantula, scorpion, water cockroach, cricket, locusts, ants and whole frogs. All really just varying degrees of crunch, although my favourites were tarantula body and the frog. On arrival we grabbed a quick lunch before checking in and freshening up before our afternoon/evening activities started. We initially headed by tuk tuk to a local factory to view the production of carved, silk, painted canvases and jewellry goods. The hard carvings incredible with the level of detail reached. Next up included a little Visal surprise which was bubbles watching the sunset over Angkor Wat. It was truly magical. This all before grabbing dinner whilst watching a traditional Cambodian dance show. What a day, we hardly stopped. It was early one to bed as the next morning at 4:30am we headed back to Angkor Wat to catch the sunrise and explore the wondrous temple complex. Thousands turned out and we resembled coloured ants against this large iconic structure. Later that day after some breakfast and a power nap we headed to Ta Prohm also known as the 'Tomb Raider' temple. This place was amazing to see the fusion of nature and historic architecture as one. Both now intertwined for eternity. It was incredible how the roots and branches hugged the once complete temple to create this incredible historic site. We passed through the Victory Gate before taking on our last temple of the day, Bayon. A temple complex full of towers and many faces. An intricate maze of historic genius. It had been a day filled with wonder but was time to have five minutes by the pool and another power nap before grabbing dinner and cocktails for Charlotte's birthday. Thank goodness it was a 9:30 kick off this morning with us heading to Tonlĕ Sap lake to view life in the floating villages. It was surreal to view floating schools, markets and churches as part of these communities all bobbing along on the water. We were even fortunate to view a graveyard that had been uncovered on the banks since the floods had subsided with the dry season on its way. Back at base, it was time for pampering. Fish pedicure to start, which Martin joined me. The funniest thing, the expression on his face. You could swear they were pirhanas! ?? Next up I did a quick retail therapy session grabbing some light tops for India before bumping into Dan at the hotel. There we took a coffee in the sunshine before I grabbed a haircut at a local salon. It wasnt easy trying to communicate the terms 'thin this out' and 'shave the back' short but luckily I managed through get it. A quick freshen up, make up applied and change of clothes, I was ready for my busy evening ahead. First it was off to Visal's home for some true cambodian hospitality and to meet his lovely family. From there, Dan, Agata, Mariya, Martin and I went to Dashkins, a recommended Indian restaurant which was superb. We even all ate at the sametime which had not been the case at all, on this trip. It was now time to take on the Sky Lounge located on Pub street. This place was so cool, inclusive of fountain, bean bags, live music and we rocked it. Making the most of our catch up with Dan, we stayed pretty late and came back at 2am. It felt great at the time but not so much the following day when we left at 7am to travel back to Bangkok. The journey taking a total of 11 hours, inclusive of 3 hours queueing at Aranyaprathet border to cross into Thailand. I was back and taking dinner at the same restaurant I had sat at, 29 days ago. It had been an exceptional trip and I'd made some friends for life who I'd be bound to catch up with again. My parting drink in the Hangover II Bar. Part of me in disbelief it was over, part of me now thinking, was I ready to do it all again in India!

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