HCMC-PhuQuoc&Back

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The City In The Midst of an Identity Crisis

We are back in HCMC. When I say back, I am implying that we left, and have returned. Something that neither of us thought we would ever want to do. As we left HCMC, I had plenty of time to reflect upon my interpretation of this grand, ever-busy city. I came to only one conclusion- this city is suffering from a very severe Identity Crisis. Being in the wake of a newly created socialist government, HCMC, and Vietnam in general as I have seen it, is constantly at a battle with itself, struggling between numerous binary oppositions that could, and should, determine what it is about. This city, large and spread out, and yet concentrated and overpopulated, is facing a turning point where it is stuck in a junction of oppositions; it is new and old, modern and ancient, clean and dirty, rich and poor, big and small, fresh and decaying. From the lowest pebbles on the street, to the highest buildings in the sky, and every minute detail in between, it is impossible to determine where this city is headed in terms of self determination. Being one of the poorest countries in the world, its crises is simply that the vast gap between the rich and the poor is stopping it from making headway on a world-wide scale. When you glance down the street, you see a large, modern, clean and shiny new Panasonic building, filled with electronics galore sandwiched between grungy, old, filthy shops selling whatever goods they have to offer. There are no front doors, infact no front walls to these old shops, they have only sliding metal garage door type coverings that are pulled down at night. The Panasonic building is panelled with pristine glass walls and doors, and the interior is colder than a polarbears ass. Any shop you may come across is a shop selling one product solely- a shop full of air conditioners- a shop full of refridgerators- a shop full of shoes- a shop full of sunglasses- a shop full of large steel safes. The switch from communism to capitalism has opened up a world of entreprenurship for every tom, dick and harry that can get his hands on something. Rather than having large malls, or shopping centers, the streets are lined with hundreds, thousand of shops selling just one particular item and nothing else. The streets all look identical from one end of Vietnam to the other. Mopeds, travel agencies, tiny shops with beverages and a few snacks, food stands, beauty salons,- all competeing for your attention as you walk by- from the other side of the street. They hoot and holler at you to get your attention, thrust pamphlets in your face, and hope that this time, you will step into their shop, their beauty salon, rent their bike or take a trip with their agency. You get used to this, and fast.
The country is poor, but the workers are hard, and the faces are friendly. Everyone just wants to get you what you need, and they will all try their damnedest to understand every word of rapid-fire english coming out of your mouth. They remember you when you leave, and when you come back, they honour your presence and treat you like royalty for showing them some minute sense of loyalty.

I do not dislike Vietnam, not in the least. I wish it great success in the future. Though, I still have 3 or so weeks to spend in this country, I will not take it for granted.

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