pink city


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March 13th 2010
Published: March 13th 2010
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quite a lot to catch up on as last time the internet was so rubbish i got fed up and couldn't be bothered to type anything once i gopt the pictures on.

so, the last few days at apk were sort of uneventful, but also very eventful at the same time.... basically, nothing to talk about on here, but we had got to know people at apk quite well, and considered them friends, and in a small community like that, where nearly everyone is related and knows everyone elses business, there is a lot gossip, and politics (with a small p) and rumours and history and grudges. in the last few days we got to know quite a lot about all this, and it was very interesting for us.... but not interesting for anyone reading, so you just have to beleive me!

we also visited a paper mill which is causing some horrific pollution in the area. the project at apk has been campaigning to get it stopped but to no avail. it's really horrible. the factory literally pumps disgusting gungy hot water into this river 24 hours a day. the river stinks and is bereft of wildlife. it's a real shame but it was interesting to see first hand.

much nicer was a brick factory. i couldn't quite figure how they actually made the bricks, but it was evidently mainly by hand. we watched men carrying 24 bricks on their heads in a tall stack and run about from place to place through all the dust and in the heat. no-one can say indians do not work hard!

we also went into the actual village of amarpurkashi again (we live within the college compound). it was lovely, that's where the picture with the baby goat is from.

on friday (yesterday) we finally left apk. it was hard as it has started to feel like home, but we felt ready to actually get oput and see some more of india. lizzie left a few days ago and marcia and anita have gone home to the UK, so at the moment it is just me and monica.

we left apk at around 10:00am and arrived in jaipur at 00:15.

the first train was from moradabad to delhi and took around 3 hours. we were a bit worried about the long trip, so in the shops around moradabad station we stocked up on crisps, biscuits, bananas, oranges, chapatis. we were very proud of our forward planning. we sat on the train and within seconds came a chai-wallah. lovely, we had some tea. a few seconds later someone came along selling biscuits, crisps etc. oh well, we needn't have bought them in advance but never mind. seconds later someone came selling water.... then byriani, then chapatis and puri, then chana masala etc etc. basically a constant stream of lovely food availale for a reasonable price!

we ate a byriani and also all our munchies before arriving in delhi at around 3:30pm

now old delhi (delhi junction) station is not a pleasant place. it just stinks to high heaven, i don't what of (i don't think i want to know), it is crowded, confusing, slippery, loud.... and though very well stocked for food, the train had been very hot. and in two hours we had to board another train for a further 6-7 hours. however, i am rather ashamed of what happened next. we took refuge in a (ahem) (says very quietly) macdonalds. i know, i know, i come to india to experience all it has to offer and hide for two hours beneath those normally repulsive golden arches. well, what can i say, it was clean and air conditioned and did a panner salsa wrap. actually macdonalds in other countries are rather fascinating, mcmaharaja burgers were also available.

anyway, feeling rather refreshed, we surprised ourselves by locating the platform, train and even correct carriage and berth with no difficulty at all. feeling smug we sat down in our sleeper seats and spread out comfortably.

now, you may have guessed, but a sleeper seat means you actually get a whole length of seat to yourself, which you can, obviously, sleep on. you pay extra for this class of seat.

but as the train stopped at the next few stations, more and more people got on, and started sitting next to us, and above us, and is some cases almost on top of us.

i started to get a bit confused. also, the carriage was described as a three tier sleeper, but there was the seat level seats, and one high up above, but that's only two tiers surely???

i studied the ticket and a helpful person offered advice. the seat back of the normal level seats folds upwards, and you hang it off chains, thus forming a third middle tier. aha! excellent, i understood (hope you understand also from my description, i have slept in a similar arranged on sailing trips before). as i got it, the men said proudly, "so, no problem (favourite phrase here), in this carriage you can sleep six persons!". my joy at having worked out how to convert a seat back into a bed wore off. a quick glance around the six person sleeper berth revealed it was currently occupied by at least 15 people.

"no problem" the man emphasied, "many of these people have no reservation, ask them to move, or soon they will get off and you can sleep". hmmmm.

the thing is, i actually just love this sort of thing about india. the whole outlook on life and approach to logic is just completely different and somewhat incomprehensible.

as the journey went on, everyone started chatting, it was so friendly, people asking us about our trip and experiences in india, others having heated political debates, playing cards etc. and, lo and behold, by about 9pm most people had indeed got off and we managed a couple of hours sleep in relative comfort.

anyway. we had booked ahead in jaipur into a hotel recommended by the bible, (i mean lonely planet obviously), it was a bit expensive (around $6 per night) so we hoped it was nice, and it is! hot shower, toilet roll, balcony, decent (ish) internet!

so today we have explored the pink city. first up, it IS pink! which is a slight surprise, we are learning not to expect anything in india, but yes, the pink city is pink. like all cities here it is hectic, busy, polluted, loud etc, but nice.

we have been shown around on a cycle rickshaw, managed to sneak into the city palace for free by accident, and made friends with an elephant. we have drunk i think around five lassis today of varying combinations and bought yet more bangles. (somebody stop me, i only have so much arm).

but we feel we have probably managed to have our fill and will head to pushkar tomorrow. it may seem a bit of a rush, and i do want to take my time, but cities are not good for relaxing and pushkar is supposed to be relatively peaceful and cheaper!

so long and we can work out what bus to take etc so i will have to leave my blog for now and do some useful stuff on the internet.

feel like i have missed loads out but it's pretty long so i will leave it now. i will try a few photos and probably next update from pushkar.

namaste!



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15th March 2010

Hi Karen, Great photos! Really makes me want to go back. I loved Rajasthan when I was there. Really glad you are enjoying your trip. I'm having a delightful time too, here in this office - things are wonderful here. Everyone is so cheerful etc, etc. Take care, Vicky
18th March 2010

So glad you are having an exciting time!

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