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Published: February 14th 2010
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Laos In Laos we only travelled in tourist areas and so our judgement may be clouded but we did not receive the friendliness that we had from the Cambodians and Vietnamese. We felt that to many people, we were just money machines. It would be wrong to say that there are not nice people in Laos, we met many, however, compared with the Vietnamese and Cambodians we cannot feel that they were as friendly.
Vietnam The Vietnamese surprised us after what had happened to their country during what they call the ‘American War’, with their genuine welcome to westerners, especially in Hanoi which was devastated by bombs. An American suggested to us that it was because they had won the war, or that they were just after our money, but this was definitely not the case. Saigon of course was not much touched by the war and there are nicer buildings, however, there are many more tourists and consequently the locals were not as friendly.
Cambodia How do you judge Cambodia? The Khmer Rouge tore the country apart. They are probably the poorest of the three countries but also there is the biggest difference between rich and poor. 95%!(NOVERB)
appear near the breadline but the rest drive 4 wheel drive Lexus. We were prepared for beggars but the disabled beggars constantly waving half limbs in your face can slowly wear you out, some even painted the end of their limbs red to simulate blood. There is something special though about their friendliness. The best example we can give was on our return from the boat trip to Rabbit Island, where our tuk tuk driver was not waiting for us: “You want tuk tuk?” “No thank you,” by now just flows off our lips. “Do you have a hotel sir?” to which we give the same answer but our body language says “Go away, we do not want anything, we know your cousin has a guesthouse”. “Which hotel, or have you got your boat ticket sir?” Terry can’t be bothered with all this “Why do you want to know our hotel and see our boat ticket?” “So I can phone your tuk tuk driver sir and tell him you are waiting.” We both felt very humble as our tuk tuk arrived.
The Cambodians may be seen to be lazy or lacking in intelligence and enthusiasm to get on, however,
we had it explained to us by a French girl who had lived there for some time that as the Khmer Rouge executed all intellectuals, teachers and scientists. Many of them (the Khmer Rouge leaders) are still around, some are in the present government and the people live in fear of a return to those days. They therefore do not wish to get on, are wary of having an education and often feign lack of learning. There are few old people in Cambodia, most were killed or managed to leave the country, therefore, there are few role models for the younger people.
General We thought we would be stopping at small villages where the locals made a living by growing rice. It was not easy to see the way people lived and although we saw villages on organised trips, however close to reality, it was still a little staged. Unless you are a very enthusiastic traveller it is difficult to go into villages and you need your own transport. Buses and boats only stop at towns. You can ask to be put down in a village, however food does not look appetising, as most people are eating off
bowls on the floor where the food is cooked. You may be able to stay in the villages but we do not know where and finally if the bus drops you off, we have no idea how you can leave.
Dress Code We were warned on internet sites and in guidebooks of a strong dress code in the three countries and Michelle took only long shorts, and tops that covered her shoulders. It was not long before we realised that this was a mistake. Lots of tourists were walking about in shorts, short skirts and vest tops, even at Angkor Wat with no reaction. If you think it is still offensive then best tell the local 18 year old girls, many of whom wore the same. The dress code for the three countries, certainly in the towns and cities bears no difference to any other country.
Finally Best parts of our trip: Walking round the lake in Hanoi and going up the Mekong Delta by boat.
Big mistakes: The fast boat from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, the bus was better, faster and cheaper. Leaving Cambodia too soon for Thailand.
Best
beer: Laos (Beerlao).
Cheapest beer: 23p in Saigon.
Best fresh orange juice: Laos at 60p for a large glass.
Cheapest food: Generally Vietnam but nothing can beat the night market in Siem Reap where most meals are 60p.
Cheapest clothes: Vietnam.
Friendliest people: Cambodians and the people of Hanoi.
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