Chiang Mai Trek, Chiang Khong, Slow Boat and Luang Prabang

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11, 12 & 13 December 2009
Got local bus back to Chiang Mai for 70 baht, had to stand up for first hour and half, bus took around 4 and half hours. Dan and Sam got mini bus which only had two seats available. Sam was ill so I said I would get the local bus. They arrived before me and had already checked into a triple room at T K's, which had 6 single beds?! Booked 3 day 2 night trek for 1000 baht, which I thought was cheap. Priced up bus to boarder, staying night at Chiang Khong, getting boat over to Loas, crossing boarder, slow boat down Mekong River for 2 days to Luang Prabang in a TAT office (tourist information). Also, asked TK and he done it for the same price so booked it through him. We would leave the night we arrive back from trek so not to lose anymore time. We are becoming conscious of the fact we want to be in Hanoi for Christmas. There is another option to travel down the Mekong River which is by Speed Boat which takes around 6 hours. However, the Lonely Planet states "Deaths are not uncommon; given the recklessness of the drivers this is no great surprise". I met Boom (chef from cookery class) and friends for some drinks that evening.

We got picked up for trek and headed to market to buy our food supplies. Sam still not feeling well. First stop was elephant trekking, we bought some bananas to feed the elephants and our elephant was particularly greedy. The only problem was everytime it raised its trunk for another banana we got sprayed with saliva and smelly breath. We enjoyed the elephant trek but some locals were mean to there elephant, catapulting stones at them and hitting them with sticks. We then had lunch, which was vegetable fried rice. A short drive and we were trekking on foot. We trekked for a few hours to a waterfall, which was freezing but refreshing and like a massage on the shoulders and head. After a swim and a relax we continued trekking to the village were we would spend the night. Our guide showed us around the village, at the women producing handicrafts, the men building new huts and the kids playing football. Dan joined in with the football I decided against it as the pitch had many pot holes and big stones on it. For dinner we had massaman curry and a vegetable curry with rice, very nice. We also sampled the local whiskey and had a few beers around the camp fire. Our guide provide us with a few logical thinking games until we decided to go to bed under our donkey blankets. It got cold in the night and was very nippy in the morning. Quick wash and brush teeth then breakfast, which cinsisted of egg on toast. My stomach was feeling a little fragile but I decided to stock up on the breakfast. The second day was pretty hard as all uphill and we were struggling for air, maybe due to high altitude or just because we had been partying for the last 7 weeks? On route we passed some locals who were collecting their lunch, a bag of rats that had been caught by the traps they had set. Our guide asked if they could spare one and they kindly obliged. We were all up trying what appeared to be the local delicacy. However, my stomach was a little more than fragile. We continued until we arrived at our next village and lunch, which was like a vegetable noddle soup, not bad. To our disappointment we didn't get to taste the rat as the people at the village demanded it. The village people didn't appear very friendly and kind of ignored us but I suppose they see so many people on treks these days. We relaxed in the sun for a while. There was a number of children playing and one lad was firing stones with a catapult at empty cans. We had a go but I wasn't much use. We then continued our trek past many farmed areas, the government encourages local villages/farmers to grow vegetables, fruit and cut flowers rather than opium so we didn't get to sample any of that either. We eventually arrived at another waterfall were we got our soap out and had a wash, again very cold but quite refreshing. We then continued trekking to another village where we would stay. However, we seemed to be off the beaten track and our guide was lost. Our guide cut his own path out of the juggle then found the river he was looking for. We crossed the river without falling in, just about, and arrived at a place that had 2 huts, 1 with half of its roof missing the other with no door, not much of a village. One man "Mr Magic" and his dog lived there and we were going to stay with them, which seemed a bit strange as it was supposed to be a village. Anyway, we put our stuff in our hut, the 1 with no door, and sat by the camp fire whilst the guide helped prepare dinner. Whilst we were sitting by the fire a man walked through with a riffle on his back, must have been hunting. Our guide came out to us and showed us why we were there, a big marijuana plant! Now we now why the guy is called Mr Magic. We had dinner then Mr Magic true to his name produced a bamboo bong and a load of weed. He said help yourselves so that's exactly what me and Dan done over a couple of beers. However, they kept insisting we have more and were talking amongst themselves. Think paranoia had kicked in so we decided to call it a night and went to bed. Looking back it was still a strange situation, as I don't think that was supposed to be part of the trek, off the beaten track, no one knew we was there, the man enjoyed his smoke so could have been a schizophrenic, our hut didn't have a door, our guide was about 17 and took us there just so he could get a free smoke. The next morning we had breakfast and expected to have to pay for our smoke but no mention so we just payed for our beers and a little extra for Mr Magic. Our guide was down at the plant filling a bag with more weed. He said Mr Magic has a big field full of plants not far away. We trekked again until we hit another river and some mini rapids which I jumped in and the river takes you through the rocks, I nearly hit a big rock but pushed off it with my feet. After a short break we continued trekking mainly downhill until we reached the bamboo rafting, which looked pretty tame. However, it was fun and we nearly fell into the river a few times. The yute picked us up and took us to another village where we had Pad Thai then drove us back to Chiang Mai. Overall the trek was good and value for money, just a shame we didn't get involved with local village people more but think the treks in Northern Thailand have pretty much been done.

On arrival back from our trek we had showers and got ready for mini bus to Chiang Khong. There was a bloke in TK's from England also waiting for the same mini bus. He was steaming, could just about stand up and was supposed to get the same mini bus that morning but didn't wake up. The driver had to man handle him into the van as he was just leaning up against the side of it. The mini bus took around 5-6 hours but I didn't really sleep as couldn't get comfortable. We arrived in Chiang Khong at our accommodation Boom House at around 2am and jumped straight into bad as had to be up really early to cross the boarder and get slow boat down the Mekong River.

The Mekong (Mae Nam Khong) is the world's 12th-longest river. From the Tibetan Plateau this river runs through China's Yunnan province, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. Our trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang is very popular and an essential experience on a South East Asia trip. However, the journey takes 2 days. We have been advised the slow boats are basic and uncomfortable. They take 2 days, stopping the first night at Pak Beng, which is supposedly not a nice place. The second day they continue to Luang Prabang. The other option is the fast boats (speedboats) which hold 8 people and luggage in very small space. They are long tailboats with a big lorry engine on the back and considered dangerous, often stopped from running by the authorities when the river level is low.

14 December 2009
Got up and had shower then breakfast whilst watching sunrise over the Mekong River. The guy who was steaming the night before was at breakfast but having a liquid lunch. We got a lift to the Thai boarder where we got exit stamp then boat to Huay Xai the Loas boarder. Visa cost 35$ (american). Once we got visa, arrival stamp into Loas and passport checked a number of times we got a lift to a restaurant where we had to wait until the slow boat was ready. Whilst waiting me and Dan thought we'd start on the Beer Lao, we also stocked up on cans and sandwiches for the journey ahead. The slow boat didn't leave until 11:30 so not sure why we had to get up so early. The slow boat was just a long narrow boat with wooden benches for 2 people either side of an aisle, with a toilet and counter to buy drinks/snacks. Not what I expected but ok. Met Alice (NZ), Emily (NZ), James (ENG), his mate can't remember his name (BEL) and Sven (NOR) on the boat. The Mekong is very picturesque and I enjoyed the jorney. We arrived around 19:00 at a little village called Pak Beng where we would spend the night. I imagined us to be on the slow boat for 48 hours and have to sleep on board. We decided to stay at the same place as the others we had met and a good choice as Emily is better at bartering than me. We got accommodation for 50 baht each less than 1 pound. I stayed with the 2 New Zealand girls to give Dan and Sam there own space. On check in the receptionist was trying to sell us marijuana and was burning it so we could smeel it, crazy place. Once checked in we went for dinner up the road and drank a bottle on local whiskey between us. There was a few words exchanged over spliting the bill as the other lads were a bit drunk and being vacuous. On the way home we got offered marijuana and opium every 5 minutes. We were home by 22:30 as the lights in the town go out then.

15 December 2009
Usual drill, up early, freezing cold shower then breakfast. We stocked up on baguettes and cans of Beer Lao for the journey again as it seems to pass the time and make the experience more enjoyable. We walked down to the slow boat for 09:00 start. Of course the boat did not leave at 09:00, they were trying to get big off road motorbikes on. The boat kept stopping on the second day to let locals on and off, it then stopped for locals to try and sell us food which consisted of some sort of dead racoon, dried rat (looked like a mini dinosaur with sharp teeth) and a basket of live frogs. One local purchased the racoon and brought it aboard the boat. It was a another good day on the river with some amazing scenery and I was quite disappointed when we were pulling in. However, the sun was setting as we arrived in Luang Prabang, in case you had not noticed from my other blogs I love my sunsets, so I took about 10 pictures. We stayed at Silikhane Guesthouse for 85000 kip a night about 5 mins from where boat dropped us and just set back from the main roads. The rooms were new and very nice compared to Pak Beng. I shared a room with Sven as he was on his own as well. We all decided to go for meal together again with the same outcome. The guy from Belgium fell asleep so we woke him up to pay the bill and he refused. I demanded that he pay and Sam was trying to sort out bill, he was rude to Sam so Dan rared up on him. Me and Alice went up the road for quite drink and James turned up to apologise for the other lad.

Luang Prabang is a city located in North Central Laos, on the Mekong River North of the capital Vientiane. It has french colonial style buildings and is blessed by a ban on buses and trucks, due to its Unesco World Hertiage status. The locals are very laid back and relaxed. A 23:30 curfew silences the city by midnight and maintains its traditional disposition.

16 December 2009
Me, Dan, Sam and Sven decided we would do some sightseeing and head to Kuang Si falls, 32km from the city. We walked to main road and approached a tuk tuk which was parked up, the driver was asleep so we woke him up and negotiated a price. The falls comprise of a 180 foot main waterfall and several 10-15 foot cascades tumbling over limestone formations from one turquoise blue pool to another. Its the limestone that gives the water the rich turquoise colour. Just passed the entrance to the falls there is a bear sanctuary, housing bears rescued from poachers so we had a look around and took some photos. The first pool had the richest colour so Me and Dan went for a swim, the water was freezing. A few tiers further up was another pool with a rope swing so again me and Dan was straight up the tree think we were tarzan. After we headed upto the main waterfall which was quite impressive as most of the waterfalls we had been to see on our travels were pretty dry. Me and Dan climbed to the top of the main waterfall through the jungle to look down on the pools below and across the mountains. We retuned to the car park to meet the tuk tuk driver to find the tuk tuk but no driver. He eventually appeared about 15 minutes late saying he needs 5 more minutes. He was busy gambling the money we had paid for the journey. Once back in the city we chilled out until the others were due to arrive. We met them off the slow boat, they checked into our place and a place directly behind. Once they were settled in we had a look around the night market. It was bizarre, you had to approach the people who owned the stall, we have been so used to being hassled and chased up the road by sellers. We all went for curry where the owner was Indian. Kieran asked for his curry to be hotter as it was barely warm so it came back with chopped chillies on top and no warmer. Barry was losing his head because his dish had not arrived yet. After our meal we went to Loa Loa Gardens Bar which as the name suggests had a big pretty outdoor area. We stayed there until close 11:30 but wanted more as usual. A few of us had heard about a bowling alley that is open until 04:00 and serves alcohol but didn't know where it was. We asked tuk tuk and they knew exactly were it was so off we went, the gang, Alice and Emily. Of course by 00:30 we were just getting warm so very boisterous, bowling/throwing 2 balls at once, bowling half way down the aisle, bowling when before the pins were ready. They give us a few warnings and thretened to throw us out but we were in full swing by then. Anyway we calmed down and managed not to get kicked out. It was very enjoyable night.

17 December 2009
Chilled out, used the internet, enquired about flights and visa for Vietnam. Was going to go to Vang Vieng on the evening bus with Alice and Emily to save wasting a day travelling but hadn't checked out of room and was tired. On the evening we found a bar with cheap Beer Lao so had a few to whet the appetite. Me, Kieran and Kate headed for an outdoor restaurant with a BBQ and tried some local whiskey which is some sort of whiskey/wine bottled with various different reptiles in it (snakes, scorpians, small turtles, etc). The locals say it makes you strong! At the BBQ I had a big whole Snapper, 2 Pork Chops with plenty of salad. After food we all met the others back at the hostel just down from ours to sort out minbus to Vang Vieng for the morning, Willow and Julie will come with us, some people the others met on slow boat and I met in Pai.

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