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Published: October 18th 2009
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Hi All
It is Laura. We are at present in Hoi An in the middle of a Monsoon but very safe and dry in our hotel. As Sam has updated we are well into central Vietnam and are enjoying the majority of what it has to offer.
When we got to Nha Trang, after our interesting journey, there was an instant difference in the style and culture as it was so geared at tourists which is reflected in the locals tone towards us, unlike Dalat. Nha Trang is a beach resort with high rise hotels and bars lining the beach. It was quieter than expected and we came across more holiday makers than back packers which was a surprise. With the quiet came an almost constant happy hour so cocktails on the palm lined beach were bought while sheltering under our palm/bamboo parasols. It did not feel like traveling at all and as so many of the bars and restaurants were empty it was difficult to always find the party culture that we had been told to expect. I think I helped by tricking Sam into singing the Doors ‘People are Strange’ on karaoke. His Jim Morrison was better
than my John Lennon which I followed up with as an apology. It was funny though.
Our room had a sea view and we mainly just sat read and ate. We found it difficult to really enjoy it in Nha Trang after the desertion at Mui Ne beach. A sea view is nice but it was better staying by the beach and being somewhere that was meant to be deserted. On our second day we tried to escape the holiday makers and went to try and explore the islands just of the coast. This adventure was short lived as due to the locals needing boat sales we were not allowed to use the local ferry. Plus we were told with the far more expensive tourist ferries you could only explore private beaches that you pay to attend or an aquarium with big fish in small tanks which did not sound to cool. So we gave up and retreated back to the free beach with the rest of the sun worshippers. Don’t worry mam we were in the shade at all times, hence me still having a pathetic tan. We only spent 2 nights in Nha Trang but were ready
to leave to go further north to Hoi An.
We took an over night bus from 6pm to 6am to reach Hoi An. In Asia they have created buses with bunk beds which sound like a great idea. However if like me you are on the top bunk of the middle bed, the width of the bus has three beds with aisles in between so the middle has a walk way either side for people to get past, the experience is not so fun. However it was worth it to reach Hoi An.
Hoi An is an UNESCO world heritage site as it is one of the few towns with historical Vietnamese architecture still in tact. The old town is fully functional and we are staying just outside. As Hoi An is famous for silk lanterns it is beautiful to walk along the river at night while they are lit. It gives me a felling of Venice but is still very different. The weather was great on our first day too so you could sit on the balconies by the river. There are also a lot of Trans here so we have been doing the Tran family tour
just for you Yen Yen.
Hoi An is also very famous for its tailoring which is a struggle for anyone here with little money. However I think most people, especially backpackers, indulge and indulge we have. Going between 2 tailors we have got an assortment of suits and coats with some dresses thrown in for me. Sam’s favorite so far is his 3 piece tweed skinny suit; he looks great and wants a pipe to go with it. I am not sure he will be able to send it back home. I love my long blue velvet cord duffle coat but every time I try it on my body over heats. So the majority of our time in the rain has been spent flitting between the tailors and the fittings. Neither of us are sure how we will cope not being able to afford made to measure clothes now as once you have tried something that fits so perfectly how can you go back?
We also went up to My Son which are ancient relics of the Cham dynasty. They are likened to Angkor Wok in Cambodia but while they are not as big they have older structures.
This gave us a chance to get out into the mountains again and appreciate more of the old Vietnam than still remains. The relics were heavily bombed by the Americans in the war so it is amazing that any still stand. On the way back we went on yet another boat trip that dropped us off at yet another craft island. Across the river from Hoi An the locals make many hand carved wood pieces. We were shown around the workshops and were as cynical as usual to the motive. However what this did give us the opportunity to see was some of the destruction of the typhoon that hit Hoi An 2 weeks ago. Getting here we were amazed how quickly the locals have sorted everything out. There is little evidence of the destruction in the city other than 1 to 2 meters high water marks in and around all the buildings. However on this island the devastation to the community could be seen with the majority of the palms collapsed and the buildings lining the river decimated. The people are slowly repairing their lives and due to the need for tourism work hard to get everything in working
order without ever complaining. I do not think in the UK we would have the same attitude, we would probably still be waiting for the army to come and help us. The people here are amazing.
So today we wait for a final fitting and will be heading to Hue tomorrow morning. We have met up with some friends from China here too so more food will be scoffed as usual. Luckily the Lonely Planet has come up trumps with their pick for food here. Behind our hotel, within rain running distance, is a great little Café ran by this lovely old Vietnamese woman. She specialises in the local and national delicacies of Cau Dau and Pho noodle soup which are sublime. So after having breakfast there this morning I am sure we will find an excuse to go back before we leave, especially as she always gives us a big hug. Another example of how lovely the people can be here.
Sorry this has been so long but hope you are all enjoying the updates. Keep us updated on all your news and let us know how you are.
Lots of Love
Laura & Sam
The beard is still about in full bushy force!
The sweat is minimal but I still look wet because of the rain.
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anonymous
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I want a long blue velvet cord duffle coat. I'm even feeling the love for the tweed suit but mostly i want a long blue velvet cord duffle coat cos it sounds ace. And i'm jealous of the cocktails on the beach cos thats always amazing even in the rain. We watched a massive lightening storm on the beach in cuba-we didn't have a cocktail but we had a half bottle of rum poured into a coke bottle.....in fact, i'm not gonna make a tea i'm gonna have me a rum and coke and watch the boats on the mersey for a bit. It's not the same as travelling but it's a close second :) Oh and Sam you are right, the best bit about travelling is deffo the people you meet and the funny things you see...wait to you see amazing scenes every day in NZ. i actually caught myself saying, 'oh, another beautiful waterfall' in a slightly dissapointed voice once. seriously, what an idiot!!!! And don't get me started on taking amazing beaches for granted. By the way, your photos so far are brill. I love the one of laura in the russian train station and i think the beard is excellent and should have its own blog. x